Let’s go up the hill!

Posted on January 19, 2013 by admin

Today was a huge improvement over yesterday’s torturous adventure. (We’re learning already!) We started out by searching for a place to ski somewhere between totally boring and suicidal. We found a spot, right in town. It had a little “button” ski lift (a type of drag lift with a seat) and a not too imposing hill.

We actually began by trying to interest the boys in a little sledding. Although they were interested in BRINGING their sleds, we couldn’t actually manage any sledding. I think that until you know how much fun sledding can be, the whole thing is just too much work to feel worth it (kind of like skiing, actually).

We knew we wouldn’t be up to a lot of skiing today — especially Jo and I, because we were sore and tired from our lesson yesterday. So, we shared a lift ticket and took turns. Dan went on his own (just to remind himself how to ski — it’s been 10 years and he didn’t ski yesterday) but then he took a very excited B up with him and they skied together.

It was wonderful to see. B was so thrilled to be out there, and so brave. He kept insisting that he could go on his own (but we insisted otherwise). He loved it. He did a great job. He’s really a skier now! The smile on his face each time he reached the bottom made every bit of carrying, dragging and aching completely worth it.

Then I took a turn. I was really freaked out. It’s been 10 years for me, too, but I’ve only skied twice and I was never any good. Parts of what I worked on yesterday were a challenge, and that was elementary. Just getting on the lift was difficult, and my legs were shaking from tension, fear and exertion before I even got to the top. I got off the lift, got turned around, and suddenly realized I was up very high. But, my 4 year old had just done it a few times, and I knew I’d regret it if I didn’t try, so off I went. I went very fast and suddenly couldn’t remember anything my instructor had taught me. I managed to slow down enough to gain some control. I managed a few turns, but my legs were shaking and I was going too fast. I fell. It wasn’t too bad. The snow wasn’t icy, and I didn’t fall particularly hard. But I was then faced with the always challenging task of getting up again. My first attempt nearly sent me backwards down the hill, but I finally got it together and got up again . . . and it wasn’t too bad. I had time to take a few breaths and clear my head, and then, as I started down again, I was able to remember my instructor’s advice and actually have a pretty decent time. I was still working very hard, though, and my legs were shaking so hard by the time I got to the bottom that Jo had to get me out of my skis. But, I did it! I skied in the Alps!

Dan & B went a few more times, and then Jo tried, and after I’d rested, I went again. I was worried I was maybe doing too much — that maybe I should end on my first successful run and leave on a positive note. I’m so glad I didn’t. With the confidence that came from a reasonable first run, the second was even better. I was relaxed, thinking clearly, and comfortable enough to even enjoy my surroundings a bit. It was so beautiful up there. I had a view of all the surrounding, snow-covered mountains, some in sunlight, some in shadow, and of the cute little town below me. It was amazing, and beautiful and as peaceful as it can be when you’re gradually accelerating down a mountain in a standing position. I think I got a small glimpse into what people love about skiing. My second run was great. No falls, even!

After that, B decided he was done, and Dan took a few final runs. We had been worried that Liam would not handle a day out in the snow well (since he didn’t yesterday), but he did great. He played, ate snow and ran around. He was a happy little guy. (Maybe skiing next time.) The whole area where we skied today was perfect for kids. In fact, we saw quite a few other families in the same situation as us — a preschooler on skis and a toddler with a sled, with both parents trying to keep everyone safe & happy. It was great to see that we weren’t the only ones.

After skiing, we had lunch, returned our skis (which might have actually been my favorite moment of the weekend) and went back for a rest in our hotel.

This evening, though, we ventured out again for a walk, and the boys optimistically brought their sleds along. B chose our direction, and just a short ways from our hotel we were lucky to find a hiking trail, very snow covered and perfect for sledding. After a few tries, he figured it out and had a great time. Liam didn’t want to try, though, so after a bit, we let Liam choose what to do next. He wanted to keep walking. And when we asked where he wanted to go, he said, “Let’s go up the hill!”, so we continued on, up the hiking trail, into the dark.

This is just how Liam is. He likes to walk, he likes to hike, he likes to climb. Mountains make him happy. We thought he’d be really into skiing (maybe one day). But, he likes to go UP, not down.

We walked up a short distance, beyond the buildings of the town and into a clearing. And we were treated to the most beautiful view I’ve had in Austria. We were up, a bit above the town. There was snow everywhere, a deep cushion over the field where we were standing and on all the roofs below us. Alongside the packed down path where we were walking, right next to us, there was a stream gurgling under the snow. Below us, the village of Alpbach was illuminated — the church, the Alpine houses still decked out in Christmas lights — and we could see the little dots of light on the mountain facing us, all the little buildings and outposts of the ski resorts. Our clearing was lit by the moon and the stars (some of which actually appeared lower in the sky than some of the lights on the mountains) and behind us, further up the hill, closer to the foot of the mountain cliffs behind them, were the houses of the next village, with Christmas trees decorated all around. Other than the sounds of the stream, everything was quiet, and we all stood and soaked up the magic of the moment.

We had such a remarkable day. The challenge of yesterday has been completely overshadowed by the delights of today. I loved seeing the joy B got from learning to ski and the drive Liam has to explore. Seeing B come down the mountain, the view I had at the top, the breathtaking moment of seeing an Alpine postcard fantasy in real life, the feeling of my little ones’ hands in mine while we walked through the snow — I hope I can hold on to all of these memories. I had some truly special moments today.

File under: skiing, Alps, torture

Posted on January 18, 2013 by admin

We are beach people. Ever since I can remember, my life has included lovely trips to the beach. Not every summer, but often.

We are not ski people. I’d skied twice before ever in my life, about a decade ago. Dan has skied a few times. For Jo, Benjamin & Liam, this was their first time.

We have no idea what we’re doing. And I mean that in a grand sense — not just on the slopes. We are complete novices, utterly clueless. We know nothing. For instance, we didn’t know that renting skis, getting on a bus and going to a ski lesson is one of the levels of hell. There’s just so much stuff, and it’s all awkward and unwieldy. The boots are horrible to walk in and everywhere you walk is slippery. The kids can’t carry their own stuff and all the skis and boots and things are in addition to all the normal day-out-of-the-house stuff you need. It’s a nightmare. We were all exhausted before we even got to our lesson.

I’m sure there are ways to make it easier. It reminds me of going for a day at the beach . . . only this was our first time, so I think we got everything wrong. With the beach, over the years, we’ve learned. We know what to bring and what to leave, we know how to pick a place that’ll be as convenient as possible, we know what parts are going to be hard and in what ways. We don’t know any of that about skiing. We don’t know how to make it easier or how to prepare ourselves for the hard parts.

Liam never even got on his skis. He fell apart pretty much as soon as we arrived for our lesson and although he recovered, he opted out of participating. He & Dan spent the length of the lesson in the hotel lounge next door, being warm.

Jo, B & I endured two hours of torture known as a “beginner ski lesson”. Although we all learned at least a little something, and watching B experience (and enjoy) skiing for the first time was pretty wonderful, it was a rough two hours. Physically, it’s tough — just standing in ski boots for a few hours is a challenge, and trying to make the skis do what you want is harder and takes muscles I don’t typically use. It was made worse by having an instructor who was unenthusiastic about teaching children and beginners. I starting checking the time about 20 minutes in to the 2 hour lesson. We got through, but it was not a great time. (Except for B, who truly enjoyed himself. He especially liked the “bumps” — little moguls. When Jo & I tried that, we fell over. B has no fear.)

While Dan & Liam warmed up inside, one of the other ski school instructors came in to get one of the other kids warmed up. They all chatted a bit, and Dan ended up asking her, “This is so hard. There’s so much stuff, and managing it with the kids is so hard. How do people do this?” And she said, “You suffer.”

Which answers that.

But also, people here who bring their kids skiing seem to have mostly separate vacations. The parents drop the kids off at the ski school in the morning and pick them up in the afternoon. The school even provides lunch. It’s like daycare, with skiing. The parents go and have grown up skiing time, and the kids have their own thing. That’s really not what I want. I want us to spend the time together, even if it’s not totally exciting for all of us. (Although after today, I certainly understand their choice a little better.)

B seems to like skiing, so I don’t think we’re done. (Talking to him this evening about sone logistics for the next few days, he actually said, “Oh Mommy, NOTHING could stop me from skiing!”) We’ll do some more tomorrow, and we’ll see what else our weekend holds. If we keep this up, we’ll get better at it — and not just at the skiing. It HAS to get easier. Because today was really hard, and we were literally huffing, puffing and groaning as we hiked back up the hill to our hotel this afternoon. The skiing part was kind of fun though, and I certainly get why the sport is attractive — this is a beautiful place, and I do love being outside to enjoy it. I just wish we didn’t have to “suffer” to enjoy it.

One of those days

Posted on January 16, 2013 by admin

Today was just one of those days. I don’t know if it’s the fact that we’re going out of town tomorrow (which always brings on some stress) or the fact that this is just the second day that we’ve been back in our daily routine since mid-December (and there’s bound to be some adjustment to that), but for the first few hours this morning, it felt like everything was going wrong. Actually, to be more specific, it felt like every decision I made was wrong, was always going to be wrong and that I was ruining the children’s lives. One of THOSE days.

Liam’s going through a needy phase right now, so he wanted to hold my hand as I got Benjamin ready for school. The entire time. Which is very sweet (there’s no way to say no to that) but makes it a little challenging to get out the door. Then, of course, when it came time for B & I to leave for school, Liam was sad that we were leaving at all. He wanted B to stay home, he wanted me to stay home. He was not a happy guy.

Benjamin and I had a very pleasant ride to school. But then, we got to school and everything fell apart. He made a drawing yesterday, which he wanted to show me. He hadn’t put it away in his drawer (where these things are supposed to go if the kids want them to be saved), so he couldn’t find it. So he just fell apart. Crying, screaming, clinging to my legs, hiding behind me. The teachers told him they’d help him make a new one, told him they’d help him look for the old one, offered hugs. Nothing worked. He was inconsolable. The teachers worked on getting him interested in making another drawing while I slipped out and headed home.

And then, as soon as I walked out the door, I second-guessed every decision I had made this morning. Maybe I should have brought Liam with me to school? Maybe I should have stayed at school until B settled down? What was I thinking? Why did I keep abandoning my tormented children? Why was I ruining their lives by having dragged them to this far-away country where life is so flipping hard?!?

And then, I took a breath, got myself together, and realized that nothing awful actually happened today. Liam misses me when I take B to school. Well, I understand that — I miss him, too. But he doesn’t have to go through the sub-freezing weather, with a cold, to drop B off at school. That’s a good thing. And even if it makes him sad, I think it’s a good decision.

B lost his drawing. Sometimes that happens when things don’t get put away. I sympathize with his disappointment and frustration, but these things happen. Sometimes you search and find the old one, sometimes you give up and make a new one. Either way, these are the things that help to teach us to take care of things we don’t want to lose. It’s a life lesson. Frustrating and sad, but not tragic.

And none of these things have anything to do with living in Austria. We would be going through the same challenges wherever we were living. If I was lucky enough to have a babysitter for Liam, I’d probably take B to school and let Liam stay home and play. And he’d miss me and be sad, but I’d still probably think it was the right idea. And B would have drawings that he didn’t put away in the right place and which got lost. It’s not that he doesn’t understand where it goes, he just didn’t put it there. He’s 4. That’s how it goes.

We’ve been here almost 2 years now, and we still have days like this. Of course we do. These days don’t come from living in Austria, they just come from living. My ability to doubt myself, my decisions and my ability as a mother doesn’t spring from my geography. It’s just me, being insecure and wanting everything to go well. I’m wasting the same energy here worrying if I’m making all the wrong decisions that I would wherever I was living. I realize that I’m going to make some bad decisions sometimes, but I need to remember to think about it like B and his drawing — sometimes we make a wrong decision, and then we learn something from it, and we do things differently next time. That’s it. It’s not a big deal, it’s just life.

And our stories today all have happy endings, anyway. When I got home, Liam was thrilled to see me, but he had spent lots of happy time playing with Jo. B’s teacher found his drawing AND they made another one, besides. Life is good. Things are good. Not every single moment is, but that doesn’t mean I’m doing everything wrong.

New stroller

Posted on January 15, 2013 by admin

We went looking for a new stroller last night. Since we had success there last year, we decided to go back to the same shop. Unfortunately, there’s a laundromat there now, with no sign of the stroller store. (Their website is still up & running and still lists that address as their only location, so I’m thinking they went out of business, but their web address is still paid up.)

It is so much easier to get things done with a stroller, and with our ski trip coming up later this week, we really wanted to get one as soon as possible. (Certainly, we could do the ski trip without a stroller, but managing the trip to the train station, at least, would be so much simpler, so I’d rather have one.) So, we did a quick Internet search and stopped by another shop, Dohnal, Haus des Kindes, which is actually much closer to our house.

They had a surprisingly good stroller selection, although nearly all of them high end. Part of that is the store, but part of it is just Europe. People spend a lot of money on strollers here. The fanciest, most expensive strollers in the US are very commonplace here, and they just don’t have many less costly options. In this particular shop, there were only two strollers — not two types, two actual strollers — under 200 Euros. (Do the conversion to be truly horrified.) Most of the options are in the 300-600 Euro range, with quite a few in the 700-900 Euro range. Almost anything that isn’t an umbrella stroller will be over 300 Euro. (As a side note, the double strollers here are roughly the same price as they are in the US, meaning that you can get a double stroller here for only a little bit more than a single of the same variety.) Benjamin immediately fell in love with a Maclaren which was lovely (and one of the least expensive in the shop at 240 Euro) but being an umbrella stroller, it was a challenge to use one-handed. That’s something I do a lot (one child rides while the other walks and holds my hand, leaving only one hand for stroller pushing) so it wouldn’t work.

We looked at a few others, but we were ultimately stumped. Nothing seemed to quite fit our needs and price range, starting with the problem of needing the stroller to work for B — most strollers here go up to 15 kg only, and that’s just where B is now. (Which is another interesting thing about Europe — they spend a ton on strollers, but almost no stroller will hold a child over the age of 4, so they aren’t making a long-term investment.) I didn’t want to compromise and get something more frustrating than helpful, given that the stroller is the single piece of baby equipment that we use most (aside from the kids’ beds).

We decided to go home and check out the selection on Amazon.de to investigate our options. After an hour or so of looking and comparing, we had narrowed it down to 3 good options. Only one of those 3 was available at the local shop, and since we really wanted to get it before our trip this weekend, we went for that one. Interestingly, it’s the exact same stroller we have in double form, only as a single — a Baby Jogger City Mini (this time, in red, since that is B’s favorite color).

I’m happy with it. It’s a little bigger and heavier than the Chicco we had, but much sturdier. It still has a basket underneath for stuff, and I can use it easily with one hand. And, as a plus, it’s a real jogging stroller, so it should be very functional for walking and running. So far, both kids have been thrilled by it, but neither has actually gone for a ride in it yet. I can’t wait to take it out for a spin myself . . . and I hope this one lasts a little longer than its predecessor.

Snow day

Posted on January 14, 2013 by admin

I am a bad influence.

We woke up to a good bit of snow this morning — probably about 3 inches, and certainly the most we’ve gotten in a single shot so far this season. I love the snow, and I started imagining all the fun we were going to have today — building snowmen, throwing snowballs, taking a snowy walk, maybe even finding a good hill for sledding. And I started thinking that it was really a shame that we had to wait until this afternoon, after B got home from school, to start enjoying the snow. After all — who knows how long it would last? Many times I’ve promised B, “We’ll play in the snow after lunch/after nap/tomorrow”, and then, by the time it’s time to play, the snow is all gone. And, really, it seemed like such a bummer that Dan would have to miss out in all the fun . . .

So I decided we should have a family snow day.

I asked B if he would rather go to school and play in the snow with his friends or stay home and play in the snow with us — of course, he chose to stay home. Dan took a BIT more convincing. As always, I don’t think he thought I was serious at first. But I persisted, and I also reminded him that we have all been sick and an extra day for us to rest and get better really probably IS a good idea.

So, we all stayed home to play in the snow. I had fanciful visions of playing together, strolling through the snow-quiet, tree-lined paths of Vienna, and then coming home to warm up — drinking hot chocolate and all snuggling together. That is not at all how it went. B was excited to go out, but he only wanted to go out on the terrace. Liam refused to go out in the snow at all (I’m hoping this isn’t a foreshadowing of how enthusiastic he’ll be about skiing this weekend). So, I stayed in with Liam and we watched Dan and Benjamin build a snow dog and throw snowballs. When they were cold, they came in and we all played together. I wanted to go out and enjoy the snow, and, since no one wanted to join me, I went on my own.

So, Benjamin got to play in the snow, as did Dan. I got to walk on the peaceful, snowy sidewalks of Vienna. And Liam, who I think really needs a bit more recuperation time, mostly did that. We didn’t exactly do it all together, but we did have a nice day. I love snow days.

Bull in a stroller shop

Posted on January 12, 2013 by admin

Last November, our trusty stroller, which we had gotten before Benjamin was born, broke and had to be replaced. Taking on a task like selecting and purchasing a new stroller, in German, and with a nearly unrecognizable selection of styles and models, was a pretty massive challenge. Liam was just barely one, though, so we didn’t really have an option — we weren’t going to easily make it through the rest of our time here (especially without a car) without a convenient “single” stroller to complement our very functional, but also very bulky, double stroller.

Well, it’s happened again. Our “new” stroller broke today, and we’re suddenly in the market for a new one. Again.

I blame Dan (almost) entirely. He’s pretty rough on strollers. His mentality is, “if it won’t go, just push it harder”. He was rough on the first one, and then again on this second one. It lasted just over a year.

Granted, because we are without a car, and we walk everywhere, it had a year of very intense use. That stroller travelled with us to 6 different countries, on trains, busses, planes, trams and in the trunks/boots of various cars. It went to the top of a mountain in the Alps and to the top of the Eiffel Tower. It’s been busy. And, through all of it, the daily concussion of the cobblestones, as well as the all-too-often misjudged curb heights (which cause us to slam our entire moving weight onto the handle), were probably the most destructive.

But, whatever the cause, here we are again — a highly stroller-dependent family without an easy stroller to use. The stroller shops aren’t open again until Monday, so we’ll go shopping then. On the plus side, Liam, who is now over 2, is much more mobile without one (although we’re not quite yet to the point of not needing one at all). I’m sure we’ll find something good. In the meantime, it’s a lot of walking (and carrying of children) for everyone. Curses to Dan and his cavalier stroller attitude! (Actually, I’ll cancel the curses, and just make him carry the kids. That’ll work.)

New Year’s Eve in Vienna

Posted on January 9, 2013 by admin

Last year, we went in to New Year’s Eve with no expectations, and we ended up having a surprisingly fantastic time (despite getting stuck remarkably close to where the fireworks were being launched with a child who was NOT amused by the tremendous amounts of sound and smoke).

This year, we had a much better idea of what to expect. New Year’s Eve in the center of Vienna means day-long concerts, lots of public intoxication (but it’s surprisingly orderly), food and drink for sale, stands selling stuffed pigs for good luck in the New Year, many people dressed in crazy hats and sporadic fireworks throughout, followed by a big fireworks display at midnight. It’s a good time. Much of the downtown area around the already large pedestrian zone is closed to traffic, creating a massive area in the center of the city closed to cars and available to revelers. Concerts featuring all kinds of music are set up throughout the city. It’s loud, and festive, and very, very fun.

And, since we enjoyed ourselves last year, we set out to try it again this year. Again, we wandered through the streets along with everyone else in Vienna. Everywhere was crowded. Each concert had a huge number of people (of all ages) dancing along. We started out with the kids in the stroller, but they got out to dance along the way. We walked through the center of town, stopped for a cookie at Starbucks, walked past the Hofburg Palace, around the Ringstrasse and around to the Rathaus (which was hosting the most raucous party of them all). We were cold, but we had fun. The celebration was so enthusiastic and lighthearted, and it was fun just to be out in it.

But, unlike last year, the kids had had enough after a few hours. Around 10:30, they wanted to go home, so we obliged. We came home, got everyone dressed in pajamas and started to get ready for bed . . . but, it turned out, they wanted to stay up and be festive for the new year, just not outside. So, we played Wii together until the big moment.

And, we were pleasantly surprised to find out, we could see some of the fireworks from our kitchen window. So we rang in the New Year, all together, bunched around the kitchen window. It was a great end to 2012 — Vienna throws a great New Year’s party. 032

Time to travel . . . again

Posted on January 8, 2013 by admin

In the past 12 months we’ve done a lot of travelling. We’ve gone sledding in the Alps, spent a long weekend in Paris and a short one in Normandy, took two separate trips to the US (one including a week at the beach), visited England, Scotland and Ireland, and saw Salzburg, Tirol and a little bit of Bavaria. It’s been quite a year.

However, the last trip we took (Bavaria, Salzburg and Tirol) was almost 3 months ago. It’s the longest break we’ve taken since we started this whirlwind of travel across Europe last year . . . and, I’m ready to go again. As much as it can be a ton of work and sometimes a fair bit of stress and inconvenience to undertake a major trip as a family, I can’t wait to do it again. I think I may have gotten myself addicted to the adventure of discovering new places.

Which is good, because we’ve got a lot more to come. Next week, we have our first ski trip planned, next month we’re going to Italy, and I have a few short weekend trips in mind (which, of course, I haven’t planned yet, because I always plan travel at the absolute last minute — in fact, having our Italy trip almost entirely planned over a month in advance feels unusually organized to me).

So much of this feels out of character to me. I’ve always been such a homebody — I’ve always liked snuggling up on the couch and watching a favorite movie, not venturing out somewhere new. But now that I’ve done it, I get so much satisfaction from these adventures that it completely overwhelms the inertia of being home, and almost silences my worries about the challenges. Our two upcoming trips, for example, have lots to be concerned about — we’re heading to the Alps, to ski, with a 2 year old and a 4 year old, even though none of us really ski. And then we’ll be heading to Rome, with all the stress and headache of worries about pickpocketing and scams, and Venice, where the entire time I’ll be obsessed about not losing one of the kids in a canal.

But even though I do think (obsess) about all of those things, I can’t wait to travel again. I love seeing new places and having new experiences. But I also LOVE having that dedicated time together as a family. I love sharing a too-small room, all together, listening to the boys sleep while Dan and I whisper and silently laugh as we recall our day’s adventure. I love seeing the boys throw themselves whole-heartedly into completely new surroundings. I even love the memories of holding a sick Liam in the middle of the night or laying on a couch in a strange hotel room with Benjamin as he rested. We have made SO MANY memories on our adventures so far. We have shared so many experiences and bonded as we laughed or growled about some unexpected challenge. Travel with my kids is like family-time-concentrate and each part, even the parts that drive us crazy when we are going through them (like being lost in Paris at midnight in the rain or horribly miscalculating the driving time on our first day in Ireland) — EVERY SINGLE PART — has been precious to me.

I can’t wait to go again.

The privilege of parenting

Posted on January 6, 2013 by admin

One day, my boys will be grown up — they will be men. They’ll have jobs, hobbies and friends. They’ll have neighbors and coworkers. They may also be fathers and/or husbands. Wherever life takes them, they’ll grow up, and be out in the world, and everyone will interact with them as the adults they will be.

But right now, they’re my little boys, and I have the privilege of seeing them as children. I get to celebrate their milestones and victories. I get to look at drawings, hear about their dreams, kiss their boo-boos and guide them through their first, tentative steps towards independence. There will be a time when snuggles and kisses from Mommy are embarrassing and unwelcome (at least in front of their friends), but, for now, I get to cuddle up with them every day.

No matter what the future holds for them, I will always have the honor of having witnessed these precious moments. I feel so lucky to be their mom.

A clueless American’s guide to Vienna’s Christmas markets, part 3

Posted on January 3, 2013 by admin

I kept waiting to write this because I was hoping to make it to a few more markets before the end of the season . . . but they continued to elude me. I couldn’t find the right time to go, the weather didn’t cooperate, we got busy with other things. And then, Christmas was upon us and I took a break and a vacation from writing the blog to relax and spend more time with my family. And, the upshot is that we ended up visiting the same 9 Christmas markets this year that we saw last year, and I’m just now getting around to finishing up recording our experiences. (I’ve already shared my thoughts on the Am Hof, Rathaus, Spittelberg, Maria-Theresienplatz, Freyung and Karlsplatz markets.)

And yes, I realize it’s now after Christmas and all of the markets (even the few that stayed open through New Year’s Eve) have been closed up and packed away until next year. But, perhaps this will be useful in future years. So, in the spirit of “better late than never”, I present my thoughts on visiting three more of Vienna’s Christmas markets:

AKH — This market, on the grounds of part of the University of Vienna (I believe it’s the medical school, but I’m not sure) is just far enough off of the beaten track of tourist venues to have a diffrent feel from the other markets. Before about 6 in the evening, it’s a very quiet market, with a lot of handcrafted (but not very many Austrian) items. There are a lot of varieties and options in terms of drinks (including several specialty/gourmet Punsch options) but only a few places to pick up food (the selection does, however, include an entire stand devoted to cupcakes). In general, the crowd here is young and single (probably owing to the university location) and a lot of the market stalls reflect the age and tastes of the customers — lots of shops selling candles, woolen hats and wall decorations, and decidedly fewer selling fine food or artful home decor. They do have a section of nice (if odd — the carousel contains a Mickey Mouse with glowing red eyes) children’s rides at a reasonable price. (Wednesdays also offered children’s rides at a discount.) The center of the market is built around a kind of bocce ball court which is the focus of a lot of the activity and socialization. I’ve had several of my local, Austrian friends recommend this market, and that doesn’t surprise me — the Punsch is good and the atmosphere is less commercial. I imagine that after years of wading through the tourists at the Rathaus or the Freyung, something like AKH is a welcome change. (Although, along with the less touristy feel came a much lower percentage of English-speaking vendors.) Aside from taking the kids on the rides, we didn’t spend a lot of time here, but I imagine that teenagers and young adults would particularly enjoy this market.

Schonbrunn — It’s just not possible for the other markets to compete with the setting of Schonbrunn. The market is laid out right in front of the massive and beautiful summer palace, and, if you find yourself in Vienna around Christmas, you should absolutely go. It’s a bit of a trek by public transport from the center of Vienna (takes about 30-40 minutes) but it’s well worth it. Of course, because it’s lovely, the tour buses pull up out front and unload mobs of tourists, so it’s always busy and crowded. But, the market has a wide variety of wares for sale (with a lot of duplication from best of the retailers from the other markets), some of the best food we’ve had at a Christmas market (the krapfen, freshly made and filled to order are a special treat), and lots of warm drinks (including hot chocolate, which is surprisingly hard to find at a Christmas market). Because this is a big market, housed in front of the palace, it can be really cold, and even windy as you meander through the stalls (most other markets, held in squares or on narrow streets can be quite cozy and warmer than you’d expect). They don’t have any rides or entertainment for the kids, but the grounds are vast and just around the back of the palace. We’ve found the Schonbrunn market one of the best to visit with the kids, because when they get bored, we can wander the grounds for an hour and then come back to the market when everyone is cold and ready for a warm drink. The market at Schonbrunn is really not to be missed. (This market is also one of the few that is open between Christmas and New Year’s, but I’ve never been after Christmas.)

Belvedere — The Belvedere market also benefits from a lovely setting. It’s a small-to-medium sized market, with a lot of focus on food and drink and socializing. There are some nice items for sale in the market stalls, but I noticed a lot of vendors from countries around Austria — the Czech Republic and Hungary, in particular — and fewer local ones. Since Belvedere is also not in the main tourist area of the city, the prices seem to be a bit lower and the crowds are a bit thinner. Every time I’ve been to the Belvedere market, there has been some kind of live music, and since (unlike other markets) the stage is located in the center of the market, it’s a real focus. They do have a few small children’s rides off to one side, as well. It’s a very nice market to soak up some music, laughter, conversation and Christmas spirit.

A Mommy Abroad

Our big adventure, as a family of three.

Category Archives: Kids and Parenting