Turning on the lights

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Took this at 12:13 pm

I think it’s the dark of winter that gets to people, more so than the cold.  At a latitude as far north as Vienna, the days are short and the sunlight we get is very indirect — walking to pick up B from school today, at noon, the sun was at an angle that makes me think of late afternoon.  The evening comes early.  Even now, with over a month of shortening days to come, my boys typically wake from their naps in the dark of the evening, groggy and a little disoriented.  Benjamin gets up for school in the dark, and he wakes from his nap in the dark, so he seems to be having trouble separating nap time from bed time — he often wakes from his nap asking me if it’s time to go to school.  (His body isn’t fooled, though, as evidenced by the fact that he sleeps for 10 hours at night and 2 during the day.)I love the symbolism and ritual of using light, in the winter, to push back the darkness, to bring brightness into the night.  We do it at Halloween with jack-o-lanterns, and we do it at Christmas with candles in the windows and lights on our trees.  Vienna is already using its lights to push back on the darkness.  The horse drawn carriages still roll down the streets, illuminated by lanterns.  The cafe windows all glow with warm coziness.  And the lights of the Christmas decorations have begun to be turned on.  The huge Christmas trees at the markets are lit with white lights, and on one street near our house, huge, cylindrical chandeliers of lights have been hung.

I like winter.  I’m not bothered by the dark or the cold.  But part of the reason I’m not bothered, part of the reason I like this season so much, is that we find so much to enjoy in defying the dark and the cold.  I love the warmth and the light, the coziness and the brightness, of this season.  Vienna is full of light right now, and the depth of the darkness around us makes it all the more wonderful.

Christmas carols

I love to sing.  In high school and in college, I sang a lot, but there’s less of a market for it as an adult.  I still would sing along with songs in the car, and at a very occassional karaoke opportunity, but that was it.  I miss it, especially around the holidays — Christmas music is my favorite.

I have found two new fans, though:  my boys love for me to sing to them.  As little babies, of course, there’s plenty of opportunity to sing them pretty much whatever comes to mind, but even as they’re getting bigger, I’m grateful that they’re remaining enthusiastic.  A few weeks ago, I started singing Christmas songs to the boys while they were in the bath, and they LOVED it.  Liam smiles, transfixed, or giggles.  Benjamin starts to learn the words (and even the melodies) almost immediately — he now has a favorites list (and if I vary the words at all, he notices — I can never remember whether Santa Claus knows who’s “naughty or nice” or “naughty and nice” and he calls me on it every time I switch it, and when I finally looked up the last line of the first verse of “Good King Wenceslas” he corrected me because it was supposed to be “la la la la la la la la la la la la la la”).

I love catching Benjamin singing little pieces of the songs I’ve been singing to him — this evening, he kept singing the 8th day of Christmas, over and over.  I am really enjoying singing for them.  It’s nice to have an outlet for that part of me, and it really adds to the feeling of Christmas.

My first Christmas Market

Today was the opening day of a few of the Christmas Markets in Vienna (everything will be open by next weekend) including one of the closest to our house — the one at the town hall (Rathaus).  We decided to stop by the one at the Rathaus on our way home from dinner out with friends.

I’ve been really excited to see what a Vienna Christmas Market is like — I had visions of a scene out of a Christmas card, of an open air market filled with shops selling mulled wine, cider, roasted chestnuts, hand-knitted mittens and hats, charming ornaments and maybe even fresh Christmas wreaths.  I was hoping it would be a place for the boys to get to run around a bit and take in the sights of pre-Christmas merriment, and for us to do some of our holiday shopping.

IMG_2558No — it was insane.  It’s like a county fair, a bar on Saturday night and the Atlantic City boardwalk all wrapped up in a big Christmas bow and wearing a flashing, light up Santa hat (seriously, they actually sell those — at several different shops).  It was so crowded that it was hard to walk, let alone maneuver a stroller through the throngs.  The shops were plentiful (over 130) but heavy on the “punsch” and “gluhwein” and pre-packaged sweets.  Benjamin wanted to have a cookie, and we actually couldn’t find one (which was disappointing).  There were lots of shops with little, cheap, stocking-stuffer type toys, and quite a few that sold either hats or Christmas ornaments (although all the hats and all the ornaments seemed pretty much the same, regardless of the shop).  The crush of people was heavily populated with the young and intoxicated, and there was a lot of smoking (which isn’t surprising for Vienna, but it was so bad that we actually came home reeking of smoke, as though we’d been inside and surrounded by smoke).

IMG_2555On the other hand, the enormous Christmas tree is beautiful, and the lights displays they had off of the main part of the market were elaborate and pretty, as well.  There’s a train that runs around the entire Rathaus park — Benjamin really wants to ride on that soon (and I know we will).

I’d been warned that the Rathaus Christmas Market was the most touristy of all — that the shops there would be selling mass produced, and overpriced, items.  There was a certain festivity to it, and it wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t at all what I expected it to be.  Maybe it was just the first night?  Maybe it was because many of the other markets aren’t yet open?  As we get into December, the entire Rathaus is turned into a giant advent calendar (they decorate and reveal a different window every day) so we’ll definitely be back over there between now and the holidays.  I’m curious to see what it will be like in the coming weeks, as well as how it’s different during the day, and during the week.  We’re going to check out the other Christmas markets, as well.  I’m hoping I find my perfect Christmas card scene somewhere.

It’s beginning to feel a lot like Christmas

As much as I love Starbucks, I’ve been feeling left out — they didn’t have any of the typical US autumn offerings here, and I was thinking that Vienna is probably too cool for Starbucks’ traditional red holiday cups and tasty wintry drinks.  I’d kind of resigned myself to paying the price of giving up my usual coffee holiday merriment in exchange for spending a wonderful, festive holiday in one of the most Christmassy parts of the world.  (It’s a rough life — oh, the sacrifices I must make!)

But today, I went in to Starbucks, and they had the red cups and Christmas drinks!  I know it’s a little thing, but thinking about Christmas has been making me really miss home lately, and this was just a little, familiar thing that made me smile.

There’s a lot to smile about in Vienna right now, though, and it’s absolutely impossible not to feel wrapped up in the Christmas spirit — already.

The first of the Christmas markets open this weekend, and preparations are well underway.  Trees are going up, lights are being strung, wooden stalls are being filled with wares, boughs of pine are decking the aisles, giant chandeliers are being hoisted (literally) into the sky.  Nothing is quite ready yet — the stalls and booths are roped off, and the lights aren’t on yet (mostly), but even so, I feel the excitement and the anticipation of the Christmas season already.

IMG_2407Walking down the Graben (a huge pedestrian shopping area downtown) this evening, and looking at all of the (as yet unlit) decorations, I actually got a little teary.  It’s already so beautiful, and I’m impressed and amazed by the city-wide feeling of festiveness and imminent merriment.

When I came home and walked through the front door, I heard the Christmas music that Dan had put on while I was out.  Some of it is music I grew up listening to at the holidays, some of it has been added to Christmas more recently (mostly by my sister) but all of it means HOME and HOLIDAY to me.  It made me very, very joyful.

I’m very excited about Christmas, but I also miss my family.  I’m not sad, but I so badly wish that I could share all the magic and wonder of this experience with them.  They mean so much to me, and they ARE Christmas to me.  I am here, eagerly anticipating the Christmas season in Vienna, but my heart is split between here and home.

Christmas comes early

Halloween is barely celebrated here, and Thanksgiving doesn’t exist.  There have been beautiful advent calendars and Christmas sweaters in the shop windows for weeks, and preparations are well underway for the extensive Christmas markets that will soon be open.  Unlike at home, no one is embarrassed or exasperated about it — without Halloween and Thanksgiving, there’s really no reason NOT to start the celebration of Christmas.

As if on cue, the weather here today felt like something out of Dickens (minus the snow).  This evening in Vienna was cold, foggy and damp.  Walking through Michaelerplatz, watching the horse drawn carriages go by, I could easily imagine the opening scenes to “A Christmas Carol”.

Our Halloween pumpkins are still in good form, but soon, it’ll be time to deck our halls, too.  I’m very excited about Christmas — it’s the time of year I’m most looking forward to experiencing in Vienna.  Culturally, Christmas is bound to be very different here — I suspect Austria will celebrate more religiously than I’m used to at home.  And the secular icons are different, as well — they have Saint Nicholas here, rather than Santa Claus, and the Christmas tree tradition is executed differently.

I’d better find out the salient differences, because with Benjamin being in school, he’s going to hear about them.  He’s has already started his mental Christmas list for Santa — and one for Liam, too — and he told me this evening that he’s concerned that Santa will be able to get in to our house, but maybe not out again.  He’s planning ahead.  Me too.

Benjamin and Santa

Did you know that it’s 4 months until Christmas?  I do, because I have a 3 year old who asks me daily (often more than once) if it’s Christmastime yet, where Santa is and when he’s coming.

I’ve recently started introducing to Benjamin the idea of a Christmas list:  the idea that when he wants something, rather than demanding it today, we write it down and ask Santa for it at Christmas.  The idea seems to be taking root.

033He decided, the other day, that he would like a red kite.  I told him we should write it down on our list for Santa.  He told me that he actually wants two things from Santa:  a red kite, and a yellow kite for Liam to chew on.

My 3 year old just asked for 2 things for Christmas, and one of them is for his brother.  I acknowledge that the request for the yellow kite for Liam was probably self-serving (if he has a kite to chew on then he won’t chew on mine), and that his Christmas list will grow in the next few months, but, still, it’s a cute and sweet thought for him to have.

I have great kids.