France was great

We are home.  It’s a wonderful feeling, after a week away.  There are piles of laundry to wash, several bags to unpack and acres of dog hair to vacuum up.  Our apartment feels HUGE right now (and not just because it needs a week’s worth of cleaning — our apartment in Paris was roughly the size of just our living room and dining room put together, and we were very comfortable.)  We’re so happy to be home, but we had an excellent time in France.

Looking down on Paris, together.

Paris was exciting, gorgeous and magical.  Normandy was beautiful, serene and peaceful.  The food we ate everywhere in France was phenomenal (they make a masterpiece out of a ham and cheese sandwich).

At Versaille, eating cookies.

My favorite part of the trip wasn’t discovering France, although I am thrilled to have been able to.  The best part was spending 7 days together, on vacation, as a family.  (We’ve never done that before.)

Sharing a morning cracker in the fog.

We didn’t need to be up at any particular time or be anywhere on a schedule (most of the time).  We ate our meals when we were hungry, the boys napped when they were tired (Dan and I each got a few naps, too, but not as often as we needed them).  On days when we wanted to see stuff, we did, and on days when we needed to rest, we did (mostly).  We let the boys make a lot of the decisions, and we absolutely over-indulged them (isn’t that what vacation is for?).  But, mostly, we spent a ton of time together, all four of us.

Looking at the English Channel.

It was great.  I love vacation.

Waiting for the flight home.

A beautiful day at the shore

Benjamin’s room here has no curtains, so he and I were up first thing, just after 6.  We started off our foggy morning playing in the yard and watering some (already damp) flowers.

Today was our day to explore this part of France-that-isn’t-Paris.  Our first stop for the morning was the beach.  B has been asking to go, and we figured it would be a chance for some fun freedom for the boys, even though it was cloudy and chilly.  On the way, we stopped in the cutest village ever for quiche and baguettes, and then the drive to the shore was very pretty (Dan especially like the houses with sod roofs — some complete with tulip gardens on top).  Once we arrived in the seaside town of Deauville, it was fun to see the difference between a French beach house (looks just like a French country cottage, just at the beach) and an American one.  We got to the town, found parking, and took our excited boys to the beach.  They were so excited to walk in the sand, pick up shells and run towards the waves.  It lost its allure after about 2 minutes.  (We convinced them to stay for 5.  B had me set a timer so we didn’t stay too long.)

We carried them back to the car, got them strapped in to their car seats, and started off to our next destination.  I was a little disappointed that they hadn’t enjoyed the beach more, and that they hadn’t gotten to spend an hour or so just running around.

Play time!

But, less than a block from where we’d been exploring the beach, we came upon a huge play area, with ride-on toys, trampolines, gigantic inflatable bouncy contraptions and (ironically) a big sandbox.

It was a huge hit.  We played for an hour.  They rode on tractors and motorcycles.  They dug in the sand (really).  They bounced.  B jumped on a trampoline and climbed up the huge slide.  They ran, they played, and got to be free and make all of the decisions for a little while.  They were really happy.

Honfleur

After we played, we drove to Honfleur, a picturesque town on the water, near Normandy.  The views along the way, out into the English Channel, were so stunning that we pulled over a few times just to stare.

Honfleur is small and very cute.  We walked through the streets and tried ice cream from three different shops (all good).  It’s been a long, fun week, though, and it wasn’t long before we got tired and headed for “home”.

Tomorrow we’ll pack up, drive to Paris, and fly to Vienna.  Our trip has been a success, and as much as I’ll be glad to be home, I’ll definitely miss being on vacation.  I think the boys have had fun,  too.  Tonight, before dinner, before the end-of-vacation meltdowns began, Benjamin asked, “Can we stay here forever?”

I kind of feel that way, too.  (But I miss my bed.  And my shower.  And our dog.  So, Vienna it is.)

A Normandie

This morning, we left Paris.  We dragged our stuff to the airport, rented a car, and headed to Normandy.

No idea what these are, but they're everywhere on the way to Normandy.

Mostly, I think France looks like Maryland:  hilly, wooded and dotted with expansive open farm spaces — but with yellow flowers everywhere and boar crossing signs mixed in with the signs for deer crossings.  Along the highway, each town or village we passed was depicted with a cute and distinct sign, indicative of the region.

We were lucky — it was an easy trip.  Liam slept nearly the whole way (we weren’t sure how he’d handle a long car trip, since he hasn’t ridden in a car in over a year) and Benjamin was entertained by the journey when he wasn’t also asleep.

Liam attacks the daisies.

After a few hours, we arrived at our destination: a house in the country which belongs to the parents of a friend of ours, who kindly offered it to us for a few days.  We’re about 5 km outside of a tiny town, and many of the houses around us have sheep, chickens or cows in the yards.

The boys love having a yard to play in.  Liam denuded the yard of daisies and dandelions, while B found a watering can and watered the ones Liam missed.  We’re enjoying our country retreat — we have no cable, no Internet — just us, enjoying our vacation.

Benjamin waters the flowers.

This evening, we went to town for groceries, stopped at the chocolatier and made a quick dinner reservation at a tres French restaurant (also tres fancy).  When we came back to eat, our meal took over 2 1/2 hours. Amazingly, the kids did great (and, not surprisingly, it turns out that Liam loves French food).

It’s later than we intended, and we’re all tired.  We’re not sure we’ve gotten the heat in the house figured out yet, but so far, so good in Normandy.

Versailles

Versailles is GRAND. It’s impressively huge, gilded and verdant with grounds and gardens that cover almost 2000 acres. The paths through the trees stretch (literally) as far as you can see, and even though the palace itself is massive, you lose sight of it as you wander the grounds.

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We didn’t go inside — we stuck to the exterior for the sake of the boys (and because after 4+ hours exploring the gardens, we had no energy left for waiting in the lines to enter the palace). We walked all over — we saw manicured flower beds, orange trees covered in fruit (which surprised me), acres of high, trimmed hedgerows and trees, dozens of fountains and even a canal (where you can rent boats).

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After a few hours, we rented B a bike (with pedals, but also with training wheels) to ease his exploration of the grounds. I’m pretty sure it was the highlight of his entire time in Paris so far.

We are, as we have been so often on this trip, completely exhausted, but very happy with our day’s adventure. Versailles is grand, beautiful and impressive, and it’s on a larger scale than any other place I’ve ever been. I’m very glad we went.

Benjamin becomes a street performer

Yesterday was fun, but grueling, so we wanted to have a quiet day today. We slept in, and then got dressed and headed out.

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Our first stop was Notre Dame, which Is just a few blocks from where we’re staying. We arrived before the biggest crowds, and were able to walk around and explore in relative peace. I loved it, but it was still a lot of having to be quiet for the kids, so we didn’t stay long, or wait in the tremendous lines to climb the towers.

After that, our day consisted of breakfast, ice cream, a walk by the Seine, listening to some street musicians (who ironically played only songs we sued to reach to at the dance studio), much needed naps, and more ice cream.

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Around sunset, we again found ourselves near Notre Dame, watching more street performances — the boys were particularly enthralled by a guy making giant bubbles, and a after a few minutes, Benjamin was invited up to make bubbles himself, which was pretty exciting. (He did great!)

We finished our day with an excellent French meal, less than a block from our apartment.

It might not sound like it, but it was a good, relaxing day. I love being on vacation with my family, and I feel like we’re getting a real opportunity to get a sense of Paris. We are having a great time!

Le Tour Eiffel

If there was one “must see” sight us on for this trip, it was the Eiffel Tower. It’s such a Parisian icon that I couldn’t imagine coming here and not at least making a serious attempt at getting to the top.

Of course, with two little kids, this is not small feat. Being as iconic as it is, everyone visiting Paris seems to want to scale the Tour Eiffel, and, to make matters more grueling, one of the two elevators is currently broken, significantly increasing wait times. It’s possible to make ticket reservations ahead of time, and therefore to skip most of the line, but by the time we finalized our trip, the soonest tickets available were for mid-June, so that wasn’t an option.

So, we set our alarm this morning and set off to wait in line with the rest of the tourists in Paris.

20120430-232516.jpgGetting there was piece of cake. We took the bus from the end of our street and it took us all the way to the tower. (The bus, by the way, is fantastic and easy to use and is miles simpler to negotiate with the stroller than the Métro.)

We arrived, and we joined the line. We got there at 9:04. It was a long line. Honestly, though, the wait wasn’t too terrible. The line moved pretty steadily (once the tower opened at 9:30) and, first thing in the morning, it was pretty shaded. Dan and I took turns alternately holding our place in line and walking around with Liam, since B was happy to curl up and rest in the stroller. Other than the ever-present worry about pick-pocketers and the constant stream of would-be line cutters, it wasn’t bad. And, we got to admire the very impressive tower while we waited (B said it looked like it was made of train tracks — an astute observation).

20120430-232820.jpgIt took us three hours to get to the ticket window, though, by which point, Liam had lost all patience with the whole “waiting in line” business. He cried. He screamed. He thrashed. He flailed. Nothing could make him happy. The last 20 minutes or so of the line process was pretty torturous for us (and everyone around us) but we finally made it to the front of the line.

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We went up, waited in another line, bought another ticket, waited in another line and then took the last elevator to the summit. We had been there maybe 2 minutes when B decided he wanted to go home (we talked him into staying a bit longer than that).

We enjoyed the view from the top, then made our way down to the middle (“second”) level, which I really liked. It was easier to make out the sights, and was significantly less crowded. We then descended to the first level and enjoyed some very windy ice cream before returning to earth.

20120430-233424.jpgWe were worn out, and very much done with waiting in line and being ‘en garde’ for having our pockets picked. But, I’m really glad we went. It was definitely not to be missed (but would have been even better with a reserved ticket). Although Liam resented the restriction on his freedom for a few hours, he liked walking around and climbing on everything. B, who quickly became bored with the process of waiting, liked looking down at Paris — we looked through a telescope at boats n the Seine, checked out the Arc de Triomphe from above and watched some really tiny soccer players practice. And, all afternoon and evening, he’s been pointing out every Eiffel Tower he sees (quite a few) and exclaiming that we went there today.

It was, without question, a significant undertaking, and a bit of a challenge. But, if we leave Paris not having visited another major location, it would be ok. We took our boys to the top of the Eiffel Tower, and lived to tell the tale.

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Things I’m learning about Paris

So far, I love Paris. It is absolutely beautiful. The buildings are amazing and the wide, tree-lined streets are grand and romantic. We have had perfect weather — it rained all night and through the morning (hearing it fall on the roof made us feel extra cozy) and then the sun (and the wind) came out in time for us to head out on our exploration this afternoon. We are having an excellent time.

Some things I’ve learned so far about Paris:

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Every French person we’ve met so far has been incredibly nice. They’ve also been amused by and patient with my French. The owner of our apartment has been accommodating and helpful. The conductor of our train last night helped us get the stroller (and all of our luggage) through the ticket gate. A pair of train ticket sellers laughed (kindly) through my confused attempts to purchase tickets (in French). The property manager met us here after midnight and kindly oriented us to the apartment. When Dan went looking for milk and snacks for the boys, at nearly one in the morning, a restaurant that was already closed sold him some croissants, and the bar next door gave — not sold — us a liter of milk.

Almost everything here is open on Sunday. In Paris, like in Vienna, conventional wisdom is that everything is closed on Sunday. However, in Vienna, unlike in Paris, everything is actually closed. We had no problem grocery shopping, going to the bakery, and picking up dinner out today. We couldn’t have done most of those things in Vienna on a Sunday.

Rick Steves is my new best friend. Everyone has a favorite travel guidebook, and we like his. Today, he helped us puzzle through the best value in Métro tickets and provided an interesting and funny tour of the Champs-Elysées. And, thanks to the Kindle app, I was able to access it all on my phone. Awesome.

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There are some things you’re never going to see mentioned in guide books. Did you know that people make out at Notre Dame on Saturday nights? Me either, but we were there last night, and they do. (And not like anything overly creepy or seedy, just an inordinate number of young couples, who appeared to be caught up in an impulsive romantic moment while visiting the cathedral by moonlight.)

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There is no way to plan for, or predict, what is going to be the biggest hit of the trip. So far, our boys’ favorite part of Paris has been the Toyota dealership on the Champs-Elysées. They had a concept car in the window, a coloring contest, and they gave out BALLOONS. (Not the cheap ones, either.) If you’re one and three, that’s absolutely a highlight.

We’re really having a great time so far. Paris is beautiful and we are having a great time adding a wonderful new chapter to our adventure.

Paris, unprepared

So, we’re about to leave on our trip, and all of my confidence and bravery begin to waver in the face of insecurity and self-doubt. I’m plagued by the feeling that I didn’t do enough to prepare for this trip — enough contingency planning, enough research into sights, enough practicing of my French.

But, really, what would more preparation have gotten me? I can’t foresee everything that could possibly go wrong, so I probably wouldn’t be prepared for the right contingency anyway. We only have enough time to (sanely) see a few sights, so having researched myself into an unreasonable wish list wouldn’t have done me any favors, either. (I do wish I had some idea of where we’ll be able to find milk and diapers, but I know we’ll sort that out.)

I really should have brushed up on my French, though. I guess that’s how I’ll use the plane ride (assuming I get the chance).

I’m feeling excited, and at least a little brave, as we embark on this adventure. But it still makes me anxious and insecure. Adventures are a little scary, especially because being adventurous is so far outside of my comfort zone. (But I’m working on it — obviously.)

Banishing the travel troll

In theory, I get it.  I really, really do — keeping myself in a good frame of mind is the single most important thing I can do to help my whole family enjoy an experience . . . for instance, a trip to Paris.

But realizing that and actually doing it are not the same.

It is so easy to get stressed.  There is so much to do, and the pressure accumulates.  It feels like whether or not we have an enjoyable time on this trip rests 100% on my ability to predict and prepare for everything we will need while we’re away.  And, I realize, in some ways, that’s actually true.  As the person in charge of packing and organizing (and a fair bit of the planning, even though Dan did a lot) my ability to think ahead will help us have a good time.  I feel the pressure, I feel the deadline approaching, I recognize that only a finite amount of time remains for packing and planning, and I try to accept that not everything I’d like to get done is actually going to be accomplished.

And then, I freak out a little and I start to turn into a troll.  Because even though I theoretically understand that things aren’t going to be perfect, part of my brain can’t really accept that.  I snap at Dan when he tells me he can’t find the tv remote, I sigh heavily when B asks me to turn on the Wii, I get crabby and irritable when I realize it’s almost time to pop the popcorn for movie night.  I *know* I shouldn’t, but it’s not always possible to do the right thing.

There’s laundry to be done, boots to be tracked down, dog food to be purchased, socks to be packed, trash cans to be emptied.  I should also get a reasonable amount of sleep tonight, because if I don’t, I know I’ll be even grumpier tomorrow.  (So, I end up being stressed about getting to bed so that I can be less stressed . . . hmm.)

My task for tonight is to put theory into practice.  I need to work on actually letting go of some of the details.  I need to embrace the fact that getting 90% of this stuff done will be good enough.  I need to remember that they have clothing stores, grocery stores and drug stores in Paris.  I need to be a relaxed, happy mom for my kids and I need to banish the troll-mom that is trying to take over.  (And I really DO need to get to bed at a reasonable hour, because getting rid of a travel troll is much easier with a good night’s rest.)

Packing for Paris

We are going to Paris.  My passport is here, the plane tickets have been purchased.  (We don’t yet have a hotel room reserved, however.  Dan is — voluntarily — in charge of planning this trip, so this is happening on a Dan/ADD schedule, not an Emily/OCD schedule.  I keep telling myself I will survive this.)

Benjamin, the porter

Now comes the task of packing, which really means making lists, doing laundry, sorting clothes, setting things aside, keeping said things out of the reach of the kids and the dog and, finally, trying to fit everything in to a reasonable amount of luggage to be managed by two adults who will also be wrangling two children and a stroller.  (I actually started working on packing last weekend — I prefer two weeks to work on it, but the details of this trip are kind of coming together at the last minute.)

This is not an easy task.  It takes a lot of thought and organization.  Secretly, I love doing this — it’s exactly that kind of challenge that suits the way my brain works.  (But it’s still a big job, and it still stresses me out.)

A few trips ago, I gave up trying to pack for every eventuality.  For years, trying to be prepared for anything and everything just left me carrying around a bunch of stuff I never needed, but I would STILL typically not have the one thing that would actually have been useful when some unforseen circumstance came up (such is the nature of the unforseen).  I am a bad Girl Scout — I simply must accept I will not always “be prepared” for everything.

I’m really going for “less is more” in terms of packing this time.  Anything we need, short of our actual passports (and actually, probably even those) can be purchased or replaced in France.  I am packing half the clothes that I think we need (except that I’m allowing for a full complement of socks, underwear and onesies, because there are limits to my practicality).  Our shirts and pants can be reworn — and if they get too dirty, they can be washed in the sink (since we don’t have a hotel yet, I don’t know if we’ll have easy access to laundry facilities).  For each of us, I’m packing a rain coat and a fleece jacket, which can be layered if it’s cold (even if it’s not raining, because a raincoat also makes a good wind breaker).  We’re each bringing two paris of shoes — one pair of rain boots and one pair of good walking shoes.  (I’d skip the boots except that the forecast calls for rain almost every day we’ll be in France.)  We’re bringing minimal toiletries and diapers (we can buy more of whatever we need), as well as only a few books and toys (because it will be more fun if we get a few things on our trip).

My goal is to pack for all four of us, for a week, in two relatively small rolling suitcases and one large-ish backpack.  (That includes packing the Ergo baby carrier, which takes up a fair bit of space on its own.)

I’ve assembled about 80% of our stuff at this point, but I haven’t tackled the actual packing yet.  That comes tomorrow (assuming Liam is easily distracted by tv tomorrow morning).  I’m hoping we can “travel light” (relatively) and be less worried about our stuff and more free to enjoy our time.  We shall see.  (But if they don’t sell diapers in France, we’re going to be in big trouble.)