Rain coats and rain boots

We’d had plans to go to another pumpkin festival today — one a little further away, about an hour outside the city, in Retz.  (We went last year and really enjoyed it.)  But, the weather was too unpleasant to spend the day outside.  So, we changed our plans from looking at pumpkins to hanging out with friends.

That still required going out in the weather, though, so we got the boys suited up in rain coats and boots and ventured out.  As soon as we got down to the courtyard, the boys galloped out over the cobblestones and started splashing enthusiastically in puddles.  The stomped and they jumped, in little puddles and in big ones, and they splashed water all around.  We met up with a neighbor and while we adults were chatting with him, we let the kids play.  Every time someone would walk by, they’d take a break from their splashing so it didn’t get any unsuspecting passersby soaked, too.

They went on like this for a few minutes, so that by the time we were 20 yards from our front door and had been out of the house for about 10 minutes, they had redistributed much of the accumulated water in our courtyard (and Liam had fallen down twice).  They were happy, though, and not too wet, and it was remarkable how unsatisfied they were by their long moments jumping in puddles — Liam insisted on stomping through or jumping into every puddle on the way from our building to the train station.

As much as I was a little disappointed to miss all of the pumpkin fun in Retz this year, I was glad to have my little guys stay mostly dry and warm today, other than getting themselves wet by choice, emptying every puddle in their path.

Am Himmel Kurbis Fest

We had such a great time last year at the Kurbis (pumpkin) Fest at Am Himmel, here in Vienna, that we made it a priority to return this year.  Last year, we really didn’t know what to expect going into it, but this time, we were much more prepared, and ready for lots of wonderful pumpkiny goodness.

It’s a bit of a trek to get there from our house via public transportation (the only kind of transportation we have).  It took nearly an hour, and involved a strassenbahn (streetcar), a bus and a 15 minute walk — but, as last year, it was well worth the effort.  We started by playing for a short while on the nice, wooden playground, followed by about a half an hour of fruitless attempt to get our kites up in the sky.  (There was a tiny bit of breeze, but we just weren’t having any luck.)

Then, we got to the really good stuff — the pumpkins!

Next was lunch.  We had langos (a traditionally Hungarian fried flatbread type thing) covered with garlic, pumpkin seed pesto (which may be my new most favorite thing to eat) and pumpkin seed oil, as well as pumpkin cream soup.  Benjamin, who started the meal insisting he wouldn’t eat anything other than pizza, ate nearly an entire langos himself, and Liam consumed an entire bowl of pumpkin cream soup, pumpkin seeds and all.

Then, we went for face painting.  B had told us, repeatedly, that he wanted to be a red and orange dragon.  We were skeptical that this would be possible — I would have expected it to be impossible if we’d been able to communicate in English, but in German, I thought our prospects were dim.  I was surprised, then, when he reached the front of the line and told the face painter, “I want something red!” and she replied (in English), “How about a dragon?”  He turned out as the cutest dragon I’d ever seen.  Liam must have agreed, because he decided he wanted to be done exactly the same as Benjamin.  He sat, quietly and happily, but only through the red base paint, and then he decided he was finished (but he was thoroughly happy with what he got, too).

So, with our two cutest dragons in tow, it was time to select pumpkins!  B walked right up to the pumpkin stand and chose a pumpkin half his own size.  We have a family rule that you can’t pick a pumpkin that is too large for you to carry, so he selected the one immediately next to it, and was done.  He proudly announced, “I found the perfect pumpkin!”  Liam selected a tiny pumpkin, and he was happy too.  Last year, the boys wanted to wait until we got home to carve our pumpkins, but this year, they opted to do them at the festival, so we borrowed a spoon and a knife, and started work.

We didn’t get very far, though, because about halfway through, B got too cold to continue (it was only about 50 degrees, with a little breeze, and lots of clouds) so we scooped the pumpkins out (giving us less to carry home) and headed back home . . . with stops to purchase honey cookies and excessive amounts of pumpkin seed pesto on our way out.

We had a great time.  We feel very festive and autumnal and pumpkiny today.  It was our plan to attend a different pumpkin fest tomorrow, but the weather looks pretty dismal (colder than today and raining) so this will probably be our only pumpkin fest for this year.  It was a good one.

Jo is here!

So, she made it!  All the way across the Atlantic, a layover at Heathrow and then on to us here in Vienna.  She’s in one piece, she has all of her luggage, and she’s been in surprisingly good spirits — especially considering Liam screamed through the entirety of dinner.  Welcome to Austria, Jo!

Truly, I’m impressed.  It was a big trip to take alone.  It’s a big step to take.  She’s here, far away from most of her family and all of her friends, stuck with me, Dan, Benjamin, Liam & Bailey.  (Ok, B, Liam and Bailey are pretty great almost all the time, but I’m not sure Dan & I rate at the same level of awesomeness.)  Our first 9 hours of being together have gone really well.  We found each other at the airport, got her (and all of us, and all of her stuff) safely home, took naps and ate dinner.  So far, so good.

I hope she has some notion of what she’s in for (or an awful lot of patience and optimism).  The boys are very excited to have her here — Benjamin invited himself for a sleepover with Jo already on her first night here, and although she’s making a valiant effort to sleep, he’s still awake (so I don’t know how well that’s going).  I am very excited that she’s here, and so looking forward to sharing Vienna with her — there is so much I want to show her!

Jo is coming!

This evening, my sister Jo will board a plane and tomorrow she’ll arrive here, to stay with us for a while. She’ll be here to enjoy and experience Vienna, hang out with us, join us on our adventures, and help out with the kids and around the house. If all goes well, she may be with us for nearly the entire rest of our time here in Austria.

We are very, very excited to have her. I will enjoy her company, as well as the help she’ll give us and the unprecedented freedom that Dan and I will hopefully have to go out as a couple (as she and the kids get used to each other and we’re able to leave her with them from time to time). I really do think that there will be a lot of benefit in it for everyone.

But I also feel nervous, because we’re embarking on something entirely new. It’s taken a while, but we do have a routine worked our here (albeit a pretty demanding one). Things are going to change. Jo and I have never lived together, and now she’ll be sharing an apartment (with a single bathroom!) with the entire family. This is going to be entirely new territory, for all of us.

Regardless of what happens as we go forward, we’re all starting a new chapter tomorrow. Whether things go great or horribly, it will change the texture of our interaction, and the tenor of our shared history. This is something we’ll laugh or cringe about, reminisce or bicker over, forever. She will know me, Dan, and our boys better than she ever would have otherwise, and we will know her better, too. Hopefully, we will be closer, and the adventures we share in the coming months will be full of joy. I am excited. I think this is going to be great.

Salzburg, Bavaria and Tirol highlights

I wanted to share a list of some of our favorite, not-to-be-missed sights and places that we enjoyed on our trip last week.  We travelled to Salzburg, including some of the mountains south of the city, then north and west to the Munich area, and finally south again to the area near Füssen (in Germany) and Reutte (in Austria).

Grubsteighof and the surrounding area  We had a fantastic time staying at this little guest house/organic farm.  The kids loved visiting with the cats, bunnies, goats and chickens, and we were invited to watch the cows get milked.  There was a nice play area for the kids, and the apartment we had was lovely with amazing views for daytime and for stargazing at night.  We also got to enjoy fresh eggs and milk from the farm anytime we wanted, and the farm was close to everything we wanted to see, as well as being a perfect jumping off place for wandering and exploration.  (As a note, we found them through booking.com and I can’t find a website that directly contacts the farm, so I’ll just provide that one.)  Our hosts did not speak a lot of English.  We managed to get by with their little bit of English and our “bisschen” Deutsch, but without ANY German, it might have been a challenge.

Salzburg  We had a really nice time visiting Salzburg.  We went for the Rick Steves’ walking tour one day which wore us out nicely, but I wish we’d had a second day to see even more.  (I particularly wish we’d had the time to go up Monchsberg.)  It was pretty touristy, but very pleasant and beautiful (we especially liked the fountain in Residenzplatz and the Salzburg Cathedral).  Like Vienna, many people speak English well, and our German was a bonus rather than a requirement.

The Audi Factory tour at the Audi Forum  For me, this was the unexpected highlight of our trip.  It was a little out of our way, but well worth the time, effort, and relatively minimal expense.  It was pretty fantastic to watch the process of making a car from blank sheets of metal through to the finished product, and amazing to see the innovations along the assembly line.  It was interesting enough to the kids, without being too long.  We all enjoyed it and learned a lot.  They do tours once a week in English (make a reservation ahead of time — ours was at maximum capacity).  No German is needed for the tour or the rest of the visitor portion of the facility.

Neuschwanstein Castle  This is absolutely not to be missed for anyone traveling in Bavaria.  The castle is fantastically picturesque, with an interesting history and gorgeous surroundings.  However, I wouldn’t recommend the actual tour to anyone with small kids.  The tour is short, but not good for anyone who won’t be captivated by a handheld audio tour.  We also enjoyed Linderhof, which was nearby, but if you only had the time or inclination to see one castle in Bavaria, I’d recommend Neuschwanstein.  It was also very tourist-friendly, with signs in both English and German.  If you decide to do a tour, you can also book your tickets ahead of time which substantially reduces your waiting time.  I had read several places that you could only book your tickets 24 hours in advance, but I reserved about a week ahead without any problem.

Tom Tom vs. Garmin Nuvi

For each of our last two trips, we rented cars, and both times, we rented a GPS to take along.  It added to the cost, but we were glad to have had them.  It was less expensive than turning on data roaming every time we would have needed it, and having one provided a massive peace of mind when traveling as a family — we knew we wouldn’t get hopelessly lost, we knew we could always find a gas station or something to eat nearby.  It was well worth the cost.

On our trip in Scotland, we used it to find a hotel when we were having to pull over every 20 minutes so B could be sick.  We used it to find our way to interesting looking places, and to get us home again, when we decided to get lost on purpose.  And it was super helpful in estimating how long a trip will take.  Before we went, we had heard several cautionary tales about how long it took to get everywhere in England and Ireland and about how much it was going to mess up our plans to constantly underestimate travel times — we ended up having no trouble with that at all, even when we decided, on a whim, to turn off on the scenic route to Edinburgh, when we chose to skip one of our planned destinations in the Cotswolds, or when we had to detour due to a closed motorway driving from York to London.

On our UK/Ireland trip, we had a Tom Tom, and certain things about it drove me crazy — the touch screen wasn’t sensitive enough and it was hard to get the volume right (it was always waking the kids up).  But, after our recent Austrian/German trip, I regretted every word I’d ever said against it.  The Garmin Nuvi we had on this most recent trip was terrible for our purposes, and it really made me appreciate the Tom Tom.

With the Tom Tom, finding and using the features was pretty easy.  The day/night setting was easy to find, zooming out and/or switching to an overview north/south geographic map view happened the way I thought it should and gave me the results I wanted.  The verbal directions it gave were clear and well-timed.  It warned us about speed cameras (which was kind of cool but not needed, since we were traveling on unfamiliar roads — and I’m also unsure about whether the Garmin would have provided the same information if we’d been using it in England).  When it came time to take an exit, it would zoom in and also show us which lanes we could use to exit, or stay straight, as we needed — it was so helpful, and much safer, to know ahead of time how many lanes we had to move over BEFORE we actually had to do it.

By contrast, the Garmin was incredibly frustrating.  The touch screen was more sensitive (which saved my fingers a bit) but every time I touched it, even accidentally, it would shut off our navigation to our desired destination, which was particularly uncool when I hadn’t realized I’d touched it.  The German city and street name pronunciations were terrible — it was absolutely impossible to understand, since it was neither correct in German nor an American-English bastardization of the word.  Rather, it used some kind of hybrid not quite German with poor pseudo-German pronunciation that left us laughing, but meant we couldn’t use the audio cues to help us find our streets or exits.  (I don’t know whether the Tom Tom would have had the same issue because we used it in only English speaking countries.)  Everything felt unintuitive.  Figuring out how to switch in and out of night mode felt complicated each time, and I have to wonder if it didn’t have more features than I was able to discover.

Those were small frustrations, though.  Of bigger concern was the fact that the display only showed the roads you were actually going to use, most of the time, rather than displaying an entire area map.  That meant that we couldn’t see our other options as we went along, and I also couldn’t say helpful things like, “It’ll be the third left” because the only left it would show was the one you actually wanted to turn on.  The voice commands were ill-timed (they came at the last minute, most of the time) and the image display updated slowly.  We missed our turns, several times, because we thought our turn was still coming up as we were driving past it.  Also, perhaps the most inconvenient, was the fact that you couldn’t see your map on a normal, geographic, north/south map.  Most of the time, having directions relative to our direction of travel was fine, but in one case, there was some confusion about which Ingolstadt we were heading towards.  Although we knew we wanted to go north of Munich, and looking at a map of Germany would have told us which one was located there, all we had to choose from were distances and relative direction from where we were.  We ended up guessing and double-checking with the maps on our cell phones, but it was kind of silly that we couldn’t just look at a map and say, “Hey, there it is!  That’s the one we want to go to.”  In fact, we often couldn’t even zoom far enough out to see our destination on our directions, so we were left knowing nothing more than our next direction and the time or distance or direction of our destination.  We managed, but it was frustrating.

They’re both better than Apple Maps, though.  Every time we tried to use that, it took us on a route that was twice as long (or more) than it should have been (in one case, a trip that ended up taking 18 minutes was predicted to take over an hour with Apple Maps) and it kept warning us about tolls that didn’t exist.  The times we needed to confirm the GPS directions, we actually pulled Google Maps up on our phone’s browser and used that instead.  Other than being able to remind us that Germany is north of Austria, Apple Maps didn’t do us any good.

Happily ever after

Benjamin has fallen in love with storytelling. He’s always loved it when we read to him, and he’s been “reading” (reciting the stories from books that he has memorized) for about 6 months. But, until recently, he hasn’t considered it a “real” story unless it comes from a book.

Recently (and I don’t know why it has changed) he has started to make up stories, and to ask me to do the same. I love it — it’s fun and it comes easily to me to invent a story, and I’m not sure there is anything cooler than hearing him tell one (most often about Angry Birds, or Lightning McQueen, or sometimes a nearly verbatim recitation of a story I just told — I need to teach him about copyright infringement). He’s a pretty creative guy, though, and he tells some very good ones.

They always start with “One day . . . ” and end with, “. . . and they all lived happily ever after. The end.” I love it. I love watching him learn and try new things and find new ways of expressing himself. And I love hearing his happily ever after stories. They’re all my favorite.

What this vacation needs is more cowbell

We’re home. As always happens, a week away simultaneously feels too long to be away and not long enough. We loved our time in Salzburg and Reutte (near Neuschwanstein Castle). We had some great experiences, made some fun memories, and saw some amazing sights. (And this trip gets bonus points because nobody puked.) B is already talking about the next car factory he wants to tour (Opel/Vauxhall, because that’s what we were driving on this trip) and I already have my own list of things and places for our next trip to these areas.

There are some pieces of this trip that really stuck with me — some things I’m going to miss the most and which I know will always come to mind when I think of this trip.

From our arrival outside of Salzburg, each moment included a soft, sometimes distant clanging of cowbells. The cows there actually wear them as they wander up and down their mountain fields. (It seems that not all of the cows, but just the one in charge, wear the bells.) The most striking piece of that memory for me was waking up on out last morning to a mountainside covered in snow and fog. It was like every other mountain had been erased overnight. The stunning views were gone, and all the usual sounds of wind and water were muffled or absent. But still, we heard the cow’s bells, chiming in the fog.

Just having snow at all was a favorite piece of this trip. Watching my boys giggle and throw snowballs in an unexpected October storm was pretty special.

Gazing at the stars, which we did in both parts of our trip, was wonderful. I hadn’t seen a night sky like that for a very long time, and I’d missed it more than I realized. My kids had never been able to see the Milky Way before.

This trip was mountains, snow, autumn, castles and sunshine, all wrapped up together. It was wonderful, and all so close to home. (Which also means that we might actually get to go back.) But still, it’s good to be back. I love the feeling of coming home after being away.

Zugspitze

Today we visited the Zugspitze — the highest point in Germany and also, at its peak, a border crossing into Austria (but not the highest point in Austria — not by more than half a mile). It was wild, it was beautiful, it was kind of scary.

We rode in a big cable car up to the top (over 9700 ft above sea level and about 6500 ft above the valley floor). We rode over towering pine trees, sheer cliff faces and a fair bit of snow. I’ve ridden in very similar cable cars several times before, and it’s never bothered me. I know that they’re very safe, they’ve made these trips thousands of times without incident, and that, regardless of what were to happen, it’s completely out of my hands. Typically, all of that knowledge, along with the fact that I usually truly enjoy the ride, means that I have a pleasant and uneventful trip.

20121019-234303.jpgToday, though, about 3/4 of the way up the mountain, I started to get anxious. It started to feel like everywhere I looked was down and that we were never going to get to the top. I was overcome with an almost irrepressible urge to drastically lower my center of gravity (like by sitting on the floor) and I clung to the handrail harder than was necessary. (How would the handrail help me anyway? I’m pretty sure that in the case of a massive structural failure, the handrail would suffer the same fate as the rest of us.) I didn’t completely panic, but I was more unsettled than I have ever been at this kind of altitude. During the ascent, we came up over the edge of the mountain and saw the jagged ridges of the Alps layered, one after the other, like rows of shark teeth, to the horizon. That was spectacular and awesome enough to shock me into appreciating my surroundings for the last bit of the climb. The kids did great the entire ride and seemed unfazed by the height and by my worry.

20121019-234020.jpgGetting to the top only helped a little, though. Having solid ground beneath my feet was nice, but everywhere we went and everywhere we looked, I was reminded by how high up we were. We went out onto the sun terrace where we looked down on a massive glacier where tiny-looking people were skiing. The winds were strong, but not awful, and we were surrounded by a sturdy fence. I couldn’t bring myself to let go of B’s hand, even for a second, even though we were safe, to take a picture. I wasn’t miserable, or freaking out, but I did NOT want my kids to be out there without being anchored to one of us.

20121019-233939.jpgThe kids were hungry, so we ate some lunch (nothing scary there, and a really nice view). Afterwards, I wanted to explore some more, to see what we had come to see, and to walk across the border. So, we went up onto another terrace to see some more. The views were stunning — white, snowy mountain and glacier just below us, brown and green peaks fading to golden valleys spotted with vividly blue lakes. I guess my time sitting and having lunch had calmed me down, because I was truly able to enjoy it. The whipping and howling wind was a bit intimidating, though.

Then we walked over to the German side and I was right back to almost-panic. The terrace on that side was icy in places, and the fence was much more minimalistic. I tried, but I could not convince myself to walk towards the fence even to read the maps and signs describing the area. I was done.

20121019-234330.jpgSo, we went down. The kids hadn’t been freaked out at all, but they were tired. I was worried about having a hard time with the descent, but I didn’t. The trip down was fantastic — it felt like flying, and I was able to enjoy the views and marvel at the ride (it was pretty darn cool). I was actually disappointed when it was over.

It was a beautiful mountain with amazing views. But, I liked the ride down better than my time at the top. Being at the base was like being in a different world — it was warm with a little breeze. We played at a playground with the boys and had some ice cream together. Today, at least, I liked the view from the bottom better than the view from the top.20121019-234518.jpg

Getting lost on purpose

20121018-221426.jpgWhen we travel, I try to remember to plan in some free time. I’ve found that two “on” days (days with fixed plans and schedules and activities for which the kids have to “behave”, or travel days) followed by one “off” day is about right.

An off day doesn’t have to be a lazy day or a sit-around-and-do-nothing day, though. It just means we won’t make any concrete plans, we’ll sleep as late as we like, we’ll rest for at least part of the day and we don’t have anything we’re trying to accomplish. Today was an “off” day, so we slept in, had a leisurely morning, and then went for a drive with no particular purpose.

20121018-221704.jpgWe drove back to a beautiful lake, called Plansee, that we saw the other day on our way in to town, and B and I got out to explore (Liam was napping so we let him rest). After that, we got in the car and just started to drive. We have a GPS, so we know we can always get home, so we just drove and let ourselves get lost.

Along the way, Liam woke up, we drove to Germany, and we started seeing signs for Schloss Linderhof, another of King Ludwig’s castles. We decided to go check it out.

20121018-221812.jpgIt was beautiful, very elegant, very wooded, and very Bavarian looking. After tormenting the boys (and ourselves) yesterday with the tour of Neuschwanstein, we opted to skip the tour, and just wandered around the grounds. We didn’t last long, but that’s ok — that’s part of having a quiet day.

20121018-221902.jpgWe finished our visit with lunch and ice cream. The boys had their ice cream popsicles while Dan & I finished our lunch, and then we had our own cones. This was a bad idea. Not only did our kids eat half our ice cream (after having their own) but we looked like the worst parents EVER — eating our ice cream cones while our children pathetically asked for “just a bite”. Ah, well. It was a good day anyway.

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