The great Christmas tree hunt

20121216-222742.jpgWhen we lived in the US, we were Christmas tree purists. We would drive out into the country, cut down a tree by ourselves (from a tree farm, though, not on the side of the road or anything), attach it to the top of our 2 door Honda Civic (with twine), and drive an hour back home, fingers crossed that it didn’t go flying off. (At least, most years, that’s what we did. I think we twice bought a tree from a tree lot and, maybe also twice, got a tree from a farm a little closer to our home.) It was kind of a point of pride, and also a fun tradition. We were so stuck in our tradition that we made the trip even on a horribly cold and fiercely windy day when Benjamin was only 4 months old (not a choice I would make again).

20121216-222802.jpgHere, without a car, and not wanting to try to find out how Austrians would react to someone putting a freshly cut pine tree on a train, we’ve gone the simple route. Tree lots here don’t pop up until mid-December (yesterday was the first day of business for most of them) but when they do, there’s one in front of a church less than a block from our front door. So, that’s where we search for our tree.

20121216-222821.jpgChristmas trees in Vienna are less full than what we’re used to at home. Last year, I was a little sad about it — I thought, “This doesn’t look right!” but then, after bringing it home and decorating it, I was very pleasantly surprised. Fewer branches mean fewer lights are required, and there are a lot of great spots to hang ornaments. I loved our tree last year, and I wanted to find one just like it this year.

We set out on our search. In all, the tree lot was only about the size of our living room, and once you eliminate the ones that are super small or way too big, we only really had a few to choose from. After a few minutes of debate, and some building grumpiness between Dan & I (if anyone knows how to 20121216-222841.jpgselect a Christmas tree with your spouse without anyone getting irritable, PLEASE share your secret), we selected the perfect Christmas tree. It was the one that both Dan & Benjamin voted for (Liam mostly wanted to try to run into the road, and didn’t seem to have a strong opinion otherwise). I love it, too. Of course, Christmas trees are like Halloween pumpkins — whichever one you pick ends up being great. It’s at least as beautiful as the one we had last year and is *exactly* the same height as our ceiling (particularly impressive because we forgot . . . again . . . to measure it).

20121216-222907.jpgIt’s currently standing in the corner, absorbing water (hopefully). I was going to put lights on it, but the boys are napping, and Benjamin asked me not to do the lights without him. But here we are, with another perfect Christmas tree. The tree, and the method of acquisition, are quite different than what we used to do at home, but the result is pleasantly familiar. Christmastime is here!

A ship in harbor

I’ve committed to writing and posting every day.  It’s a promise I made to myself (more than to my readers) because I know that it’s so easy to decide NOT to write on the days when things are hard and to only highlight the successes and the funny challenges, leaving the frustrating, overwhelming or dark days undocumented.

Some days are harder than others.

Today, I’m really struggling to write.  Things were generally fine here in Vienna today.  We had a pretty normal “preparing for Christmas” Saturday with a grocery store trip, laundry folded, toys cleaned up, some gifts wrapped and a trip to a Christmas market.  Life was actually wonderfully good and normal and very pleasant.

I could write about some of that.  But every time I try to start, all I can think about is what happened in Connecticut yesterday.  While I was happily enjoying Benjamin’s successful return from a field trip with his class, tragedy was unfolding across the Atlantic.

I don’t want to think about it.  I don’t know how to process it.  I can’t really think about it.  Whenever I hear about someone losing a child, I kind of shut down a little.  I have a friend who lost a child to cancer over the summer, and although I shared the story on my blog back in the spring, I couldn’t bring myself to mention it — to anyone — when he passed away in August.  I understand that this is avoidance and denial and not at all the best of me as a person, but I just don’t know how to deal with it.

At the same time, I can’t think about much else, and I certainly can’t write about anything else.  So, if I’m going to hold myself to writing every day, and I’m going to be honest about what’s going on with me, I guess this is what I’m going to write about today.

I don’t have any profound words or deep reflections to share.  I don’t know.  I don’t know anything.  This kind of loss, this kind of violence, is inconceivable, heartbreaking and overwhelming.  It is terrifying.

I want to snuggle my babies and never let them go.  Anywhere.  Ever.  I want to keep them home.  No school.  No outings.  Nothing.  Just home, with me.  Home, where they are safe, where I can hold them and do my best to protect them from everything.

But that is not what children are destined for.  They aren’t meant to live in a perfectly protected bubble with me.  They have to go out, into the world, to learn and grow and explore and meet other amazing people and, together, make the world an even better place.

And right now, it just hurts too much to think about what happened in Connecticut, or what happened to my classmate’s child, or the loss of any parent ever who has to live through a single moment of that kind of pain.  I’m embarrassed to admit it, and honestly surprised at myself, but it hurts too much to even open myself up to feel empathy for what they’re experiencing.  I cannot face it.  I cannot look at it.  Even squinting at it sideways, the horror of it is so vast that I have to turn away.

I feel sick.  I feel broken.  I am so shocked and sad, and I am so sorry that I am not up to feeling the empathy and facing the darkness of it.

Christmas market field trip

I guess it’s inevitable.  I’m constantly comparing our current experience with what we were going through this same time a year ago.  It can be hard to recognize our progress here — almost every day can pose a new challenge, and often leaves us feeling deflated or discouraged.  But, looking at how much things have changed gives me better perspective.  Today, Benjamin went on a field trip to a Christmas market with his class, and I keep thinking about how differently things went this year.  I can see how much more acclimated we’ve become.

Last year, when his class went on the trip to the Christmas market, it came as a complete surprise to us.  It was really unsettling, kind of stressful and relatively worrisome (even though it all turned out just fine).  I remember debating with Dan whether we should continue to send B to school at all, in light of the fact that we obviously didn’t know what was going on and weren’t kept informed.  This year, we knew it was coming.  Our German is MUCH better, and we have taken it as our sole responsibility (which, of course, it is) to keep ourselves informed about what’s going on with his class.  It’s pretty unlikely that anything like that could take us by surprise again.

Last year, we were kind of overwhelmed about the idea of our little guy going out without us, and we were shocked by the fact that there weren’t any permission slips or liability releases to sign.  This year, we know how it works.  He’s been out with his class quite a few times, and the sight of a kindergarten class walking down the sidewalk, following, hand in hand, in the wake of a teacher, is commonplace to us.  I always smile and imagine how cute B is, along with his class, when they’re all out together.

Like last year, he had a wonderful time, but unlike last year, we expected that to be the case.  I bundled him up in a warm hat (the wolf hat, of course), fuzzy mittens, cozy fleece-lined pants, wool socks and his winter jacket.  Last year, we were just acclimating to a Vienna winter and we didn’t really know how to prepare to be out in it.  Now we’ve got it covered.

He had a great day today, and it was no big deal for him.  For me, he’s still 4 and I’m still his mom, so I still worry.  But we’re all getting the hang of this.

Santa’s workshop

By necessity, because we have gifts to ship overseas to family, and because when we get our tree this weekend, we will be among the first in Vienna to have one, we spend the early weeks of the Christmas season shopping, planning, wrapping and packing and the last 10 days or so decorating and mostly just enjoying this festive time of year.  This is pretty much the reverse of what I used to do, when I would decorate as soon as it was considered decent to do so and then spend the latter part of December feeling frantic about gifts and shopping, usually right up until the last minute.

It’s great.  There are 11 days until Christmas Eve, and we’ve wrapped and packed all of our gifts for the States (the last box will ship tomorrow — a week later than I’d planned).  I wrapped B’s teachers’ gifts today and I’ll start on wrapping the boys’ tomorrow.  Jo & I did some brainstorming and menu planning for the holiday week today (things here are complicated by the fact that shuts down at noon on the 24th and doesn’t open again until the 27th — plus, of course, everything is closed on the 23rd because it’s a Sunday) and we’ll start shopping for our holiday meals tomorrow.

There are still cookies to be baked, a tree to be trimmed and stockings to be hung, but most of the pressure is already off.  I like doing things this way (although I do wish we already had our tree).  Dan and Benjamin have one more week of work and school, but I already feel like our holiday is truly beginning.

Deutsch Lernen

It’s taken a long while for me to gain some traction with speaking and understanding German.  I took a short, introductory course our first summer here, and for a few months now, I’ve been taking private German tutoring, once a week.  It’s helping me a lot — I haven’t learned a lot of new stuff yet, but even just having a reason and a motivation to practice, as well as a reliable and safe place to ask my random (and sometimes strange) questions, gives me a lot of confidence in what I do know.

My tutor is patient, funny and very kind, and, as a bonus, we often chat a lot about quirks of Austrian culture.  It helps me a lot to understand that some communications are challenging because of cultural differences more than because of flaws in my German speaking abilities.

Another thing that I’m learning is where my strengths and weaknesses are:  reading comprehension — great;  understanding spoken German — not bad;  writing — not awful;  sentence construction — pretty poor (and I can only speak in present tense);  verb conjugation — abysmal (except for “to be” which I do pretty well unless I’m using the informal ‘you” form, the ‘we’ form or the third person plural form . . . which is half of the possibilities, so I’ll stick with “abysmal”).  Apparently, my particular skill sets (and missing pieces thereof) aren’t typical — I keep surprising her with what I’m good at and what I’m not.  (For example, given a set of conjugated verbs, I can come up with the correct subject instantaneously, but it takes me FOREVER to conjugate verbs when given the subject — go figure.)

But that’s ok — I’m making progress.  Living in another language is exhausting.  I have to use it all the time, even though I’m bad at it.  I have to use it at B’s school.  I have to use it in the shops.  I have to use it on the street.  I have to use it when the plumber comes to my house.  My few, glorious, non-German interactions (outside of my family) are wonderful and precious to me, and I am so appreciative of the friends and strangers who find pity and patience to spare for an exhausted (and so often confused) expat.  It’s so nice to just have a simple (i.e., English) conversation sometimes.  And I am so, so grateful for the opportunity to truly express myself, which is not yet possible for me in German.

Jingle Bells

The Christmas songs Benjamin learns and sings at school are different than the ones I know.  I don’t recognize many of the songs he comes home singing, and he often doesn’t absorb enough of the words to teach me.  (We sing one about St. Nicholas that — in our house — goes, “Niko, Niko, Nikolaus, something something am der Haus!”)

But even the ones that I know, and that I’ve taught him, take on some new flavors when put through a four year old’s auditory filter.

“Deck the Halls” begins with, “Deck the halls with fallen jolly!” and “Hark the Herald Angels Sing” is now the rather more colorful, “What the hell the angels singing!  Glory to the hew horn king!  He fought Earth, and mercy mild, God and Santa, Christmas style.”

I absolutely love the Benjamin versions of these songs, and I honestly hope it takes him a long while to figure out the “right” words.

The magic of the wolf hat

Benjamin has a wolf hat.  We got it last year when we visited Innsbruck.  He saw it and he instantly wanted it.  But, he does that with A LOT of things, so my initial instinct was to say no.  But then, I thought about it, and really, it was cute, reasonably well constructed, actually fit him, and it would be a functional souvenir from our trip, so I changed my mind and got it for him.

To be clear, it isn’t made out of real wolf fur or anything.  It just LOOKS like a wolf.  There is a big wolf-looking head that sits on top of B’s head, with yellow-ish eyes and a snout with a red tongue sticking out, and it has two front “paws” that hang down over his ears and down the front of his chest.  I’ve seen other animal hats in a similar style, but I’ve never seen one so cool.  B loves it, and he wears it a lot (most days, now that it’s cold again).

Austrians, in general, aren’t as overtly friendly as we Americans are.  They don’t chat with strangers in the grocery line or on the train.  They aren’t really big on “small talk” at all.  They make eye contact, but they don’t smile.  People don’t stop you on the street and ask where you got your coat or your boots or your bag.  They just don’t.  It’s different than home.  You chat with your neighbors (if you know them) when you see them, but you just don’t talk to complete strangers.

But, the wolf hat changes everything.  Every time B wears it when we go out, people smile.  Sometimes they laugh with surprise.  They shriek in mock fear.  Complete strangers pat him on the head as we walk by.  They say hello.  When they realize he’s not much of a German speaker, they say hello in English.  I’ve had people stop me on the street and ask where we got it.  All of this is kind of astonishing and unheard of here.  But the wolf hat makes it happen, every single time.  Must be magic.

Kein Pfefferminz

Last year, I shared my search for peppermint candy canes.  They just don’t have them here.  Candy canes are quite common — I’ve found entire Christmas market stalls devoted to nothing else — but I’m still looking for a peppermint candy cane among all the strawberry, apple and mango flavored ones that abound here in Vienna.

This year, though, I’m armed and I’m lucky.  After being caught without proper candy canes last year (they don’t even have Peppermint Mochas at Starbucks!) and feeling surprisingly sad about it, I was saved by my in-laws and a friend’s parents, who all supplied me with a stock of peppermint candy canes that we haven’t quite used up.  (I also stocked up on peppermint hot chocolate mix while we were home in the U.S. this summer.)

It’s a good thing, because I’m still looking.  They really don’t have them here.  But, while I’m kind of disappointed about not having them here, it’s nice to feel the love from back at home every time I pop a peppermint candy cane into a mug of hot chocolate.

Krampus in Vienna!

I’d heard that, out in the countryside, the whole Krampus tradition is a lot more . . . enthusiastically celebrated than it is here in Vienna.  I’d seen videos of major gatherings of Krampus (Krampi?  Krampuses?  Die Krampus?) out in Graz and other parts of Austria.  But I’d never actually seen a Krampus in Vienna, other than on a candy wrapper.

I was lucky enough, today, to have a friend tell me that there was going to be a Krampus gathering in her neighborhood (out in Oberdobling, on the northwest side of Vienna) tonight.  She didn’t know what to expect (and neither did I) but since Jo was happy to watch the boys, Dan & I decided to check it out.

We found our way out there, met up with our friends, and witnessed a gathering of Krampus.  It was pretty cool.  It consisted of a bunch of guys (who all appeared to be young adults) dressed up in elaborate and quite intimidating-looking Krampus outfits.  (There was also a St. Nicholas in attendance.)  Most of the Krampus costumes had massive goat-like horns on top, making some of the guys (horns included) about 8 feet tall.  (Seriously, it was kind of amazing that no one ended up getting impaled.)  Other than Krampuses, there were a lot of other Austrians in attendance to watch (and get looked over and scared by) the Krampuses.  There was also a fire-breather, live music, some Christmas lights and a lot of Punsch consumed.

After the hour or so of wandering, looming Krampuses, things broke up and the Krampuses took off their masks, grabbed beers, and hung out, chatting with the crowd and posing for pictures.  (At this point, with the huge, horned masks under their arms or slung over their shoulders, it was even more impressive that no one got stuck with one.)  After a while, and after getting a picture of our own, we got chilly and headed home, but I’m really glad we got to see some “real” Krampuses here in Austria.  If I ever get the chance, I think it would be fantastic to go out to Linz or Graz and see a really big Krampuslauf outside of Vienna.Krampus at a festival in Vienna

St. Nicholas, again

This is our second time around with St. Nicholas’ Day, and I feel like I’m starting to get it.  If you’re bad, Krampus comes to get you on the night of the 5th.  If you’re good, St. Nicholas visits your house while you sleep (on the night of the 5th) and you wake up on the 6th to shoes with toys and sweets in them.

Since we live in Vienna, we have seen very little of the Krampus-related festivities, because, from what I understand, that’s a much bigger deal out in the countryside.  (Which is probably good, because I think it’s the scariest and creepiest Christmas tradition I’ve ever heard of.)  But Benjamin had a lovely visit from St. Nicholas at school yesterday — the kids went out for a walk and when they came back, St. Nicholas had visited and left behind sweets, nuts and oranges for all of the children.

Then, St. Nicholas visited our house, too!  Looks like everyone in our house was good.  Well, almost!