Just to be clear, this isn’t intended to be a guide FOR clueless Americans, but rather, it’s a guide BY a clueless American.  It’s a distinction I want to make because this is only my second year in Vienna, and I’m not, by any means, a Christmas market expert.  (I would, rather, consider myself a Christmas market enthusiast.)

We’ve been to a lot of Christmas markets, and we’re planning to visit even more this year, so I’m going to go through a few at a time, as we visit them, and share my thoughts and observations on our visits to many of Vienna’s best known Christmas markets — what each is like, what you might find there, our favorite and least favorite parts, and (perhaps most relevantly to me) what there might be to entertain the kids at each location.

Am Hof —  I was impressed by how early the Am Hof market opened — early November, as opposed to mid-to-late November for the rest of Vienna’s Christmas markets.  It’s a relatively small market, and it can be VERY crowded (especially on the weekends and in the evenings) and most particularly in the central area where most of the Punsch and wine stalls are located and where Radio Wien has an area where they play music.  There are some nice things to eat and drink, and although most of the tables are located in the center section, there are also a few scattered about near other food stands, so you can choose to be amongst the throngs of socializing people, or further towards the edges where the crowds are a little thinner.  Am Hof seems to focus on artisan and handmade goods (although a fair number seem to be made beyond Vienna and Austria — including an odd focus on Peruvian items).  It’s a nice, small market for a quick stop.  There isn’t anything for the kids to do, but a lot for them to look at (which can be good or bad — on the one hand, there are lots of things to see, on the other hand, there are a lot of delicate items at children’s eye level, so there’s a lot to say “no” to . . . and there are a lot of candy/chocolate/gingerbread/sweet shops).  This is Benjamin’s favorite Christmas market, principally because of the candy shop near the entrance and the fact that this is where we purchased his new, red earmuffs.

Rathaus — The Rathaus is the most famous of the Viennese Christmas markets.  It is HUGE, crowded, crazy and touristy, with lots of drunk revelers, ESPECIALLY on the weekend evenings, where it becomes more of a party rather than a market.  Most of the items for sale are pretty cheap and not really worth purchasing, unless you’re in the market for something cheesy.  There is a little bit of good food (especially the stand with the chocolate fountain) but the lines at the food stands are generally very long.  However, it’s a Viennese icon, and it’s worth visiting at least once.  The lights decorating the Rathauspark are amazing, and the Christmas tree in the market in front of the Rathaus itself is beautiful and impressive.  There are several fun kid-specific activities, but they’re a bit off the beaten path of the central market: an all-ages train that runs through the park under the lights, pony rides, a carousel and another children’s train.

Spittelberg — This is a nice, small market on a single, narrow street near Vienna’s MuseumsQuartier.  Because the street is very narrow, it can be crowded and hard to navigate (especially with kids).  The small size and shape of the market can be nice, though, because it feels kind of intimate, and it’s easy to make sure you catch all of the market stalls.  Other than a few small toy/puzzle shops, there isn’t much there for the kids to do, or even to look at.  It’s a quick visit, though, and very nicely decorated.  There is also a phenomenal chocolate shop — featuring many chocolates made in Austria — at the bottom of the street.  They have an actual shop, as well as a market stall.  (They also have a stall at the Maria-Theresienplatz market.)

Next time: Maria-Theresienplatz, Freyung and Karlsplatz Christmas markets.

Tonight, one of Dan’s coworkers was throwing a housewarming party.  He’s a friend of ours, and a very nice guy, so we wanted to go and celebrate with him.  We were all invited, but when I found out the party didn’t start until 8, I was a little skeptical that it would really be kid-friendly, and I made Dan confirm which of us were invited.

He truly did intend for all of us to come, and he even informed us that our boys wouldn’t be the only kids at the party.  We decided to go, put in a quick appearance, and head home before it got TOO late.  Our plan was to arrive right at 8 and stay for an hour, getting the kids home and into bed within an hour of their bedtime — not too bad for a Saturday night on a long weekend.

But, we ran late.  We didn’t even leave the house until well after 8, and we didn’t arrive until quarter after 9.

Grown up parties are a lot of fun.  For grown ups.  Although our hosts were very welcoming and relaxed about the kids, our evening became a blur of chasing kids, picking up dropped objects, enforcing table manners, saying “excuse me” and ” don’t touch that”, protecting the kids from the sharp corners and the delicate items from the kids and trying to provide entertainment to our kids without being antisocial to the other adults.

The first time I checked to see if it was time to go, we hadn’t even been there half an hour.

It was not an unfriendly place.  Although we didn’t know anyone other than one of our two hosts, people smiled and talked to the kids, and tried to chat with us — it’s hard, though when you don’t get to stand still for more than 2 minutes at a time.  We got to mingle a lot, but we didn’t get to talk to anyone for very long.  The “other kids” turned out to be one 8 year old boy who was persistently irritated that we didn’t speak more German.

It was a long hour.

But, we saw the new place and talked to a few people.  No one got injured and nothing got broken.  We got home after 11, completely exhausted.  But, by some miracle, the kids were in good spirits and didn’t fall apart.  We were all giggling and smiling when we came in the front door, and now (just an hour later) the boys are sleeping peacefully, and I won’t be long behind them.  Grown up parties are a lot of work.

Other than half an hour, nearly a year ago, in plain street shoes, it’s probably been over a decade — maybe two — since I skated, and my experience has been confined mostly to gripping the wall and trying not to fall at friends’ birthday parties.  I never really took to skating — I was always really afraid to fall (because it HURTS) and I didn’t do it often enough to really get any skill at it.  I like it, in theory — as in, when other people do it.  Although I don’t know much about it, it seems like the kind of thing I might like to know more about.  It’s a lot like dancing, and it’s a physical pursuit about strength, grace, balance and precision — seems like it might be my kind of thing.  Besides, it’s (sometimes) and outdoor activity, and I like to be outdoors.  I like to be active.  It’s part of my nature.  Riding and dancing are my favorite physical pursuits.  Riding I’m passionate about and dancing I truly love.  But I love doing anything outdoors, and I love to move and accomplish physical things.  It’s fun to me.

Today, we took the kids ice skating.  B & I went last year (with our friends Pam and Joshua, who were visiting) but Dan and Liam missed out because they were sick.  We’d never been to this particular place before, but when I heard about it a few weeks ago it seemed like just the thing to feel festive on Thanksgiving weekend, so we all went today — me, Dan, Benjamin, Liam and Jo.  The *idea* of skating really appealed to me, but as we rented our skates and got them on, I started to get intensely worried.  I’m far from an expert and the kids would need my help.  Would I fall and squish one of the kids?  Would I be able to do it at all?  Would I have to cling to the wall, unable to help the kids?  Was this some horrible mistake???

As it turns out, it was no problem at all.  After a nervous moment of negotiating stepping onto the ice, helping an overly confident Benjamin onto the ice, and wriggling under the rope that sectioned off the “kids area” from the rest of the skaters, we did just fine.  Dan skated with Liam, and I skated around with B.  We went slowly at first, but he gained confidence quickly.  I held his hand, held him up when needed, caught him many times, helped him up when I failed to catch him.  After a while, we found him a practice penguin, and as he got bold enough to try it on his own, I went over and checked on Liam and Dan, and then skated around with B some more.  (B is amazing and brave and likes to go FAST!)  After a while, we abandoned the penguin to another child who needed it and bravely skated once all the way around the grown up area.  B actually fell a lot MORE after the penguin — he had ramped up his confidence by more than he had increased his skill — but I managed all of it with no problem.  I didn’t have to hold on to the wall, I didn’t fall, I didn’t even lose my balance.  It was pretty great, especially considering I actually had no idea what I was doing.

In all, we had a great day.  Liam got tired before Benjamin did.  We skated for about an hour, watched the Zamboni clean up the ice, and headed home, worn out but very happy, and with another adventure added to our collective history.  For me, it was not only a fun activity to share together, but it was a great reminder that even though I’m short, and currently kind of fat, I do ok with things like this.  I love to physical things and challenging things.  I like getting winded, and waking up the next day with sore muscles.  I love doing something that is hard to do.  I’m pretty good at learning new stuff.  I’m strong, persistent, and kind of brave.  I need to find a way to do something fun and active here.  Today, we had a great time.  B would have stayed all day — and I would have, too.

I am good at many things.  And I enjoy doing a lot of things that other people consider fairly onerous — I kind of enjoy doing laundry, doing the taxes and balancing my checkbook are sort of fun, grooming and cleaning up after horses is downright therapeutic, and I don’t even mind changing diapers.  But I’m not a good cook, and I don’t really enjoy cooking, so I consider myself really fortunate that when Jo came to stay with us, she took over most of the cooking for the family.

Of all the meals she’s made and all the cooking she’s done, today was the best so far.  We had plans to go out for a Thanksgiving-inspired Austrian meal for dinner, so Jo volunteered to make brunch (and she was actually EXCITED about it).

She really outdid herself, making a two course brunch, starting with fresh fruit, chocolate, coffee and croissants, followed by a “second breakfast” of omelets, bacon and French toast dumpling things.  It was fantastic.  She seemed as enthusiastic about having cooked for us as we were to have eaten it.  We thanked her profusely, but Benjamin wins for the best reaction.

During our “second breakfast”, B initially refused to eat almost anything.  He didn’t eat more than a few bites of bacon and he only picked at his eggs.  He flatly refused to try the French toast dumplings, insisting (as children do when they’re 4) that they were “gross” even though he hadn’t tried one.  Dan managed to convince him to try a tiny nibble by comparing the flavor to cookies, and after one taste, he was as hooked as the rest of us were.  He started by saying, “Man, awesome yummy!” followed by, “Really, really Top Chef, Jo!”  After eating a few more, he looked at her and smiled, and told her, “Jo, you’re going to be a chef when you grow up!”

We all enjoyed our indulgent Thanksgiving brunch, and we all made sure to tell Jo how much we liked it.  I don’t think anyone else’s compliments meant as much, though.

I’ve been inspired by many of my friends who have been writing, each day so far in November, about what they are thankful for.  The last few days, I’ve been a little down — I’m missing home, and all of my family and friends there, very badly, and I’ve been struggling with a bit of a grumpy and frazzled mood.  I’d been working on this list, adding one each day so far this month, with the intention of posting it at the end of the month.  But, I think I could do with a bit of focusing on what I have to be grateful for, instead of what I’m sad about.  So in honor of Thanksgiving Eve, I am thankful for . . .

. . . having two wonderful, beautiful, sweet, darling children.

. . . having an amazing, loving and supportive mother, father and step-mother and for having 5 of the best siblings anyone could possibly ask for.  I also have a wonderful (and huge) extended family.

. . . a loving and dedicated husband who works with me every day to build a strong life together.

. . . my friends at home who jump to help someone they don’t know, just because I asked.

. . . my sister Jo, for being here and giving us the opportunity to do some things that would have been so much harder (or impossible) otherwise.

. . . the wonderful Post Office (both American and Austrian) for helping me keep in touch with my loved ones at home, get the things that I need, send gifts across the ocean and get all of my bills paid from thousands of miles away.

. . . not having to work.  When Benjamin was born, I knew within hours that I wanted to be home with him instead of going back to work.  I never expected to feel that way, and I am so grateful that we were able to actually make it work.

. . . even more amazing friends at home who are STILL helping me manage things (dresses, horses, clothes for the kids).

. . . public transportation in Austria.  It is wonderful to get where I need to go simply, promptly and reliably.

. . . Christmas markets.  Pure festive awesomeness.

. . . this inconceivable opportunity to live and travel abroad with my family.  The things that we have done and seen in the past year and a half astound me.

. . . the kindness and patience of the Austrians I’ve met.  Given my frequent cluelessness and general butchery of the German language, I’m kind of amazed I don’t encounter more irritation and rolled eyes.

. . . the people here who have been open enough to offer me their friendship.

. . . the good health of my entire family.

. . . technology.  Having Skype, Facebook, and email, plus a camera and super computer in my pocket that keep me connected to those I love at home.  I am so grateful for being able to share in new baby pictures, to see my family all the time, to share a laugh with a friend, and to be able to share this with everyone at home, even though we’re so far apart.

. . . the ability to write and express myself . . . and that some of you actually READ this!  (Some of you every day!)

. . . my own ability to change, grow, accept when I’m wrong, learn a new way, let go of things that don’t serve me, and evolve in order to make life better (for all of us).

. . . my body, which nurtured and protected my kids while they were growing.

. . . Christmas lights and all festivals which celebrate our strength against the darkness.

. . . Bailey, the best dog in the world.

. . . horses.  All of them, everywhere, but particularly the ones that I’ve been lucky enough to know and love well in my life: Cricket, Ellie, Shadow, Gretchen and many, many others.

That’s one for each day in November so far, but I think I could go on (and on, and on).  I have so much to be thankful for.  Life is pretty awesome.

I love the Christmas markets in Vienna.  They’re my favorite part of the Christmas season, and they contribute to Christmas being one of my favorite times of year here.  Last year, we made a point to visit most of the “big” markets, and we plan to revisit all of those this year, and then add a few to our list (I came up with a whole neurotic strategy about it the other day).

But, I think it’s important to note that there are two different kinds of visits that I make to Christmas markets — with kids, and without.  Or, I could say, looking and shopping.  The point is, I learned last year not to expect to really accomplish anything when I go to the markets with the kids in tow.

We tried, last year.  We tried, and we made ourselves miserable.  We’d go to the market, and try to do some actual shopping, entertain the kids, keep them from touching everything, have something to eat, ride the rides, look at the lights, and have a holly-jolly time.  We’d end up saying “no” to the boys 4,000 times — about things we wouldn’t buy them, things they couldn’t touch, eat or play with.  They had to hold our hands, or we had to hold them, or we had to bring the stroller so one of them could ride AND we’d have a place to stash our purchases while still keeping our hands free to keep the kids from grabbing everything out for display at the market stalls.  By the end of half an hour of this craziness, we’d all be crabby, the kids would be crying, and no one would be having the least bit of fun.

But, we figured it out.  After a handful of charming trips like these, we changed our tactics.  When we went to the markets with the kids, we went to enjoy ourselves.  We’d explain to them ahead of time that they wouldn’t be able to touch the things in the market stalls unless it was welcomed (it is at some toy shops).  We’d explain that we weren’t going to buy toys or hats or clothes for them while we were there, but that they were welcome to show us the things that they liked the best.  We explained they could each pick out ONE TREAT while we were there.  We would plan to ride the train OR ride the rides OR go on the pony rides OR walk around and look at the lights.  And then we’d go, and spend about half an hour doing just those fun, kid-friendly things.  We’d keep it simple — eat a treat, look at stuff, go on a ride, go home.  Short and sweet, with something to enjoy and not too much to tolerate.  Not too many “no”s.  And it became fun to go again.  Sometimes we’d find something unexpected, like live music, or room for the kids to run and play, and we’d end up staying longer, but we always called it quits at the first sign that it was starting to become a chore instead of something fun.

And then, if we wanted to shop, we’d make a different kind of trip entirely.  Typically, either Dan or I would go back and make a “surgical strike” to pick up just what we had seen that we wanted to buy.  Or, a few times, one or the other of us would go on our own and spend an hour or so having a lovely time browsing and shopping with our hands free.  And, one lovely morning last year, a friend of ours came over, and watched Benjamin while Dan & I took Liam (who was asleep in the stroller) to a market and we shopped for a few hours, very peacefully.  (The moral of the story is, grown ups like shopping, kids really don’t . . . especially when it isn’t all for them.)

That’s the plan again this year.  Some of the markets are more fun to explore with the kids, and others have better shopping.  We’re not going to try to be “efficient” (which never works out anyway) when we do this.  We’re either going to go and relax, have fun all together as a family, or go and shop and “accomplish” something.  It just didn’t work out well to try to mix the two.

For all the travel that we’ve done with the kids, I wonder sometimes how much of it is sinking in.  I truly believe that the things that they’re seeing and learning will benefit them throughout their lives, but I’m not really sure how much of the experience they’re understanding and appreciating right now, while we’re going through it.  Part of it is that I wonder if they’re even aware of the geographic differences in the places we’re travelling to (does it really hit them how far apart some of these places are, or does any travel over an hour just register as “terrible” to a preschooler and a toddler?) and I don’t know if they realize how unusual their perspective is (in the same way that I imagine that someone who has been wealthy their entire life couldn’t appreciate what financial hardship was really like).

Of course, there’s no way for me to really know.  And I’m sure that the distances they travel and the rarity of the opportunity they have are somewhat lost on them.  But I do think they get it, at least a little.

One of their favorite movies is Cars 2 (the other favorite is, shockingly, Cars).  We watch the Cars 2 movie ALL THE TIME (we watch at least pieces of it almost daily).  And, at the end of the movie, there is a cute little cartoon montage of all of the places that Lightning McQueen and Mater go and visit (some are seen in the movie, but many are not).  Recently, Liam has started pointing at the TV and shouting, “I’ve been THERE!” as the animation goes through various places in London, Paris and Germany.  He’s right.  He has.  (He’ll also occasionally say that he’s been to Spain or Australia, but still, he’s pretty close.  Hey, he’s *2*.)  B has started doing this, too (he’s right even more often) and he’s also started a wish list based on the other places shown in the montage.  (He wants to go to Spain, Italy, Egypt, India, China, Tokyo, Australia and Radiator Springs — that last one might be tricky.  He’s also put in a request for a return trip to Paris.)

So, I think they do get it.  They know that they’ve seen Buckingham Palace, Tower Bridge, Big Ben, the Eiffel Tower and the Seine.  The recognize the German scene (maybe by the Lederhosen?) and know that we’re going to go to Italy soon.  They have a travel wish list, and they’ve chosen some exciting and exotic places.  They’re not even in school yet, and B “can’t wait” to see Tokyo and the Great Wall of China.  I think that’s fantastically cool.  It makes me smile every single time — it’s my favorite part about watching that movie.  (Well, that and Uncle Toppolino’s village in Italy — THAT is where I want to go.)